Strawberry Garland has the following characteristics of the variety, which make it a welcome guest on the garden bed:
- Bush spherical, neat, small size.
- Repairing strawberries Garland for one season can produce a crop twice.
- Bush spherical, neat, small size.
- Mustache berries greenish-pink shade, their number is moderate.
- The leaves are medium sized, oval-shaped with jagged edges. The color ranges from bright green to greenish blue.
- Flowers of both sexes, which facilitates pollination.
- Berries conical shape, weighing from 26 to 32 grams, red.
- The flesh is sweet and juicy, pink hue.
- High yield - on average per season with one bush can collect up to 1 kg of berries.
- Resistance to frost is average.
- Does not like overmoistening of the soil, in that case development of fungal diseases is possible.
In addition, the strawberry variety Garland tolerates transportation and keeps its attractive appearance for a long time.
Selection and purchase of planting material
Before you start the cultivation of strawberries on your site, you need to decide. Does this sort of climate. Strawberry Garland gives a good harvest in temperate climates.
The ideal time to purchase planting material is spring. In this case, it is permissible to purchase in summer How to choose quality seedlings that are guaranteed to yield:
- seedlings must be sorted,
- there are at least three leaves on short scapes on the plants and a developed root system,
- you should not get seedlings that have a pale, painful appearance - such plants will not be viable.
In addition to seedlings, strawberry garland is well propagated by seed. To do this, put the seeds on a moist soil and leave in a dark place until germination. Then they land in a box and clean in a cold place for a month. After which the boxes are exposed to germination. Grown up seedlings can be swooped in separate containers or transplanted into open ground.
Selection of soil for planting
Berry is able to grow in almost any kind of soil. Preference is given to black soils and ash soils, while high peat content should be avoided. On the eve of planting a berry crop, it is required to harrow the soil, 15 cm deep.
It is advisable to choose a plot of land that is located away from the forest belt or planting, as this increases the risk of destruction of plants by pests. In the presence of perennial weeds in the area, they should be etched before planting strawberries.
Preparatory work before landing
To ensure a good harvest should be carried out preparatory work before planting:
- With a high location of groundwater should raise the height of the beds to 40 cm. The distance between the bushes should be less than 30 cm.
- Before planting, it is recommended to dig the soil to the depth of one spade. When digging fertilizer is applied - compost or humus.
- The top layer of soil can be sprinkled with sawdust to prevent rotting of berries dropped to the ground.
Strawberry Garland, the cultivation of which does not require special skills, with properly performed pre-planting work will delight gardeners with large berries and a rich taste.
The strawberry variety Garland, which requires minimal care, is a light crop for growing on the backyard. Standard activities for the livelihood of the berries:
- Watering. In hot weather, particular attention should be paid to this item. In this case, about 2 liters of water is poured under the bush. During the rainy season, additional soil moisture is not required.
- Fertilizing is carried out by fertilizers such as ash, humus, nitrogenous materials. It is performed to improve the quality and quantity of the crop. Top dressing is carried out in the period of active spring growth of the bush, during flowering and the formation of berries.
- Regular extermination of insect pests and weeds, as well as loosening the soil.
These simple activities can significantly increase the yield and improve the taste of berries.
About strawberries Garland variety description, photos, reviews - all testifies to the ease of cultivation and reproduction. The most common ways to increase the plant population in the area:
- Division of the uterine hive is the least preferred breeding method. At the same time, the new bush produces a small crop and tolerates the diseases of the old.
- Growing from seeds perfectly preserves the varietal characteristics of this berry. The nuance is that this is a rather painstaking exercise, requiring a lot of time.
- Breeding with a mustache is considered the most natural, since it does not require any special events. To do this, simply leave one mustache on the mother bush, which will subsequently take root and give birth to offspring.
About strawberry Garland variety description, photos, reviews say about the excellent taste characteristics, ease of reproduction and undemanding care.
Fragrant strawberry berries are suitable not only for raw consumption, but also for making jam, jams, juices, compotes, fruit drinks. In this case, the taste is not lost, even with prolonged heat treatment of the berries. Thus, even in cold winter you can indulge yourself with a piece of summer.
Selection of varieties of garden strawberries
Today in the domestic market and abroad there are up to 5,000 species of this plant. Planting, care, varieties of garden strawberries (strawberries) depend on and are divided into ripening terms. To enjoy this delicious berry all summer, you can plant early, medium and late varieties, if the size of the plot and the climate allows it. The optimal number of species in the same area is 5 varieties of different ripening periods.
When choosing a grade, first of all you need to consider:
- its soil composition requirements,
- resistance to drought and frost,
- resistance to diseases and pests
- ripening time
- taste qualities,
- yield and size of the fruit.
Currently, breeders from all over the world have developed many beautiful varieties, but there is no ideal type that matches all soils, climate and seasons. Planting and care, garden strawberry breeding depends on its variety, and that, in turn, from the ripening time.
Early varieties of strawberries
Selection varieties that are suitable for both jam and fresh use are in greatest demand among summer residents. For commercial cultivation, more suitable varieties that perfectly carry transport, have dense large berries that are stored for a long time.
The early varieties include strawberry, cultivation, maintenance, planting and ripening in the spring. The greatest demand is for:
- The American hane variety, which ripens early and amicably, produces high yields, is not afraid of pests, diseases and bad weather. Berries are suitable both for personal use and for industrial cultivation.
- The variety "festival chamomile" comes from Ukraine, belongs to a very early species. The first "wave" gives berries up to 50 g in weight, has a high yield, excellent taste and strong aroma. This strawberry, planting and care which does not require much effort, has no equal among the early varieties.
- The variety "Kent" from Canada is preferred by those who like to get two crops over the summer. Young rosettes of this strawberry give the second harvest in late August-September. The berries are juicy, large, suitable for preservation and fresh consumption.
Early varieties on the plot should be “diluted” with mid-season varieties in order to get a crop throughout the summer.
Mid-season varieties of strawberries
Mid-season varieties are suitable for those areas where the spring is later, and the heat is set by the end of May. Growing garden strawberries, planting and caring for it are not different from the work that is usually carried out on the berry plot. These include:
- Domestic variety “fireworks”, having bisexual flowers and giving large fragrant and tasty berries, tolerates transportation and is suitable for both commercial and personal cultivation. A grade frost-resistant and high-yielding.
- The English “lord” is preferred by those gardeners who have a small plot, since it can be grown in one place without the risk of reducing yields to 10 years. It gives large, sweet and fragrant berries with an extended ripening period, which are stored for a long time and easily tolerate transportation. Refers to the universal grade.
- Domestic “fruitful” garden strawberry enjoys special love among summer residents. Planting and caring for it is suitable even for those who come to the country only on weekends. Gives a very high yield of beautiful and tasty berries that do not shrink even by the end of the season. It tolerates winter, resistant to fungal diseases and gray rot.
A rich selection of mid-season strawberries allows you to choose the optimal variety that is suitable for both weather conditions and the capabilities of the gardener himself.
Late varieties of strawberries
The most popular varieties among summer residents are strawberries or strawberries, planting, growing and caring for which are simple even in bad weather conditions.
These include medium late or late ripening varieties. The most famous of them are:
- Late Dutch variety "Vicodus", giving juicy and tasty berries up to 120 g in weight, similar to the cockscomb. This species ripens in mid-July, practically “without a mustache”, which makes it easy to care for it. It has increased frost resistance, which makes it the best candidate for growing in areas with a cold climate.
- The variety "red gontlet" from Scotland is unusually fruitful, mid-term, with very large juicy berries of dark red color. It is resistant to diseases, winter-hardy, unpretentious.
Breeders around the world have tried to bring varieties suitable for growing even in the most adverse conditions of a short and cold summer.
The repair strawberry is a separate category. Planting and caring for it is not difficult, but the harvest is collected during the whole season. This species includes:
- Domestic variety "garland". One of its brightest qualities is the continuous flowering and fruiting during the season, regardless of the weather and the length of the daylight hours. "Garland" gives large, juicy and fragrant berries both at the summer cottage, and when grown on a balcony trellis or in flower pots. It is easily adaptable and suitable for small summer cottages, where space is saved.
- The American variety "Brighton" is great for commercial cultivation, as it bears fruit 10 months a year. Gives a high yield of large berries up to 50 g in weight, does not depend on the length of the day and the weather. On the contrary, on cloudy days and autumn cool berries become even larger. Winter-hardy and resistant to pests and diseases grade.
To date, breeders were able to bring varieties to grow in the plots of garden strawberries. Planting and care, pest control are reduced to a minimum. When planting, it is important to choose the right place and fertilize the soil so that in the future the cultivation of strawberries becomes a favorite affair, and not troublesome.
Site selection and soil preparation for planting strawberries
The most important actions aimed at ensuring that a beautiful and tasty strawberry is grown - planting and care. Strawberries (garden strawberries) are demanding for the place, lighting and soil quality.
Most varieties love the sun, and even a slight shade can affect the yield of a plant. Therefore, it is better to plant strawberries in open space, away from trees and their shadows.
It should be borne in mind that strawberries are best suited for a flat surface or with a very slight slope on the south side of the plot, protected from drafts and flooding.
Ground waters (less than 80 cm) close to the surface can also adversely affect the yield and quality of berries, so in this case, strawberries should be planted in raised beds.
The best soil composition for strawberries is sandy or medium loamy with neutral acidity. Previously, the soil should be cleared of weeds, especially perennials, as strawberries grow in one place from 3 to 5 years. It is good when garden strawberries are planted in the place of legumes, onions, garlic, carrots or celery.
It is recommended to add humus with peat (up to 8 kg / m 2) and mineral fertilizers without chlorine (up to 50 g / m 2) to the landing pits.
The timing of planting strawberries in autumn
Planting dates depend on the variety of strawberries and the climatic conditions of the area. Most often it is the end of April-May or the end of August-mid September. The main thing is that the soil is warm for at least three weeks, so that the plant has time to take root.
If planting is done in the fall, then in the spring will give a bountiful harvest of garden strawberries. Planting and care in the autumn is as follows:
- Preparation of the site, which consists in the application of 10 kg of rotted humus (manure) and 50 g of mineral fertilizers per 1 m 2 of land.
- Plot dig a couple of weeks before planting. It is important that the earth be compacted by this time.
- It is important to adhere to the correct landing pattern. Too close planted strawberries will give a small crop of small berries.
- Before frost the plants should be watered, loosened the soil and fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
- Before the onset of frost, it is necessary to mulch the aisle. For this fit leaves or straw.
- In winter, you should cover the young strawberries with sprouts or brushwood.
For winter shelter, you can use corn stalks, which will allow the plants to "breathe", but at the same time will warm them.
To grow healthy and giving a good harvest of strawberries, planting and care in the spring are carried out differently than in the fall.
Planting strawberries in spring
If planting strawberries in spring is done by seedlings, then it should be remembered that they cannot be kept for more than 2 days, but it is better to plant them immediately in a prepared and fertilized place.
In order for the plant to quickly adapt and stick, experienced gardeners dip its roots into earthen mud. During planting, the roots must be straightened so that they are not tangled among themselves, and inserted into a well-hydrated planting hole. Only roots are sprinkled, therefore it is not recommended to plant deep garden strawberries.
In the process of planting, it is important to consider that the soil around the planted plant should not be dry, so it is better to pour loose earth or humus around the hole. This will allow the plant to "breathe", and the soil to retain moisture.
Watering is done with warm water once a week, but if it is very hot, it can be shed. During the first flowering, all the flowers are removed so that in the year of planting the plant will gain the maximum strength. But next year the strawberry will give a good harvest.
The recommended scheme of planting strawberries in a row at a distance of 50 cm between the bushes. There is also a gap of 50 cm between the rows. If the plot is small, then it is permissible to grow in 2 lines, between which a distance of 30 cm is made. Planting is often undesirable because the plants will not be able to develop properly and will give small berries.
Experienced gardeners are advised to plant one variety of strawberries on one bed, and not to mix species for the sake of space.
Remontatory and bezusaya garden strawberries
Strawberry garden remontantnaya, planting and care for which do not differ from ordinary varieties, it becomes popular due to its ability to produce crops for many months in a row (from May to October). This quality of remontant varieties is used by both lovers of this berry and those who grow it for sale.
The best time for planting these varieties is spring, but in fact it can be done both in summer and in autumn. Before this, it is important to add up to 70 g to the soil of superphosphate, up to 30 g of ammonium nitrate and up to 30 g of potassium salt per 1 m 2.
Watering remontant strawberries produced with warm water daily, as she loves moisture, after which it is necessary to loosen the soil.
The only difference in the care of such varieties is a constant feeding of plants with nitrogen and potash fertilizers. Phosphate fertilizers are sufficient to apply to the soil during planting. Since several harvests “exhaust” strawberries strongly, providing it with useful substances is a guarantee of its survival.
It is recommended to pick the first flowers from young plants - then the second crop will have a tasty and large berry. The repair strawberry bears fruit for 2-3 years on condition of constant feeding, frequent watering and regular loosening of the soil.
Remontant strawberries without a garden are in great demand among gardeners. Planting and caring for it does not differ from other remontant varieties, but it is practically not subject to attack by pests, tolerates winter better and rarely gets sick.
Among these varieties there are varieties that are not affected by the length of daylight. They can be grown in open, closed ground and even at home in flower pots.
Самыми популярными способами размножения садовой земляники являются деление куста и посадка побегов - усов.
Второй способ - самый естественный для этого растения. Для него используют самые крепкие и плодоносящие материнские кусты в возрасте 2-3 лет, от которых берут побеги после сбора урожая. It is important to take the shoots that are closest to the main bush, as they are stronger, which means they will take root quickly and without problems.
The division of the bush is made in strawberries aged 2 to 4 years old, having a well-developed and healthy rhizome. The bush is divided in spring or autumn, for which it is dug, cut in half and planted in prepared holes. It is important that each piece has a rosette with leaves.
Since the advantages of the variety are rarely transferred to strawberry bushes grown from seeds, this breeding method is the least preferred, therefore it is extremely rarely used.
In order to get a harvest from the seeds, you should select the largest berries, cut off the top part with the seeds, grind and let them dry. The obtained seeds are freed from the pulp, soaked for a couple of days in clean water and sown in pots or peat tablets. After the sprouts appear, they should be thinned out and tempered before planting in open ground. For this, seedlings are carried out briefly to fresh air.
Bushes are spherical in shape, with average foliage. The leaves are bluish-green, smooth, with medium ribbing and fairly strong pubescence. Mustache pinkish green. Inflorescences are located on the same level with the leaves, relatively sprawling, many-flowered type. Strawberry bushes are low, but with a large number of flower stalks. A characteristic feature is the formation of a sufficient number of whiskers, which allows the plant to form flowers on new sockets.
At the initial stage of the growing season, the berries are as large and oval as possible, then they elongate and become oblong. The average mass of commodity berries is 28-30 g. The surface is red, shiny. The neck is absent. Ripe pulp tender and juicy, light red coloring. The berries have a dense texture and a pleasant strawberry flavor.
Indicators of average productivity can reach 1-1,2 kg from each strawberry bush. Genetically, the plant has the possibility of continuous fruiting, regardless of the length of daylight hours and the weather. The variety is characterized by decorativeness, therefore, quite often grown by gardeners as a vertical crop.
Under the cultivation of remontant garden strawberries of the “Garland” variety, it is necessary to allocate areas that are as even as possible or with some elevation without stagnation of moisture and shading. Landings should be well lit and warmed by the sun throughout the day. It is best to grow strawberries called "Garland" on light and medium in terms of the mechanical composition of the soil with acidity of the soil at the level of 5.0-6.5 pH.
Popular varieties: which ones to plant?
It is recommended to weed constantly. If berries are found lying on the ground, they must be lifted with a special wire support. To increase the size of the berries helps regular clipping of the antennae.
The wasps can also cause quite a lot of inconvenience, but it is even easier to deal with them: just a jar of compote, which will quickly distract the insects' attention, is not far from the farmed strawberries.
Strawberry remontantny Vima Rina has a sweet-sour taste, which strongly distinguishes it from other varieties. But it is resistant to drought, pests, and with proper care, its taste can be considered the best among other analogues.
- Increasingly, home gardens begin to grow strawberries and strawberries, which are capable of producing several harvests per year. This is facilitated by simple care, for example, it is possible to grow strawberries, even without using sophisticated methods, special agricultural technology is also not needed here. The difference in these berries is only in the fact that strawberries have larger fruits, and by growing strawberries, you get smaller ones. The rules of care are almost identical, although the remonthant strawberry is more demanding in some cases.
- When preparing the land, do not forget that over-fertilization can harm your plantings, and, instead of delicious berries, you will only see eared tops, so be careful.
- I made sure that the remanufacturing strawberries are best transplanted in the spring, because after the last fruiting (in September) the bushes are so exhausted that it is better for them to rest all winter under the snow.
- On the remontant berries were oval, spiky, quickly ripened. But the bushes bloomed and formed a crop all July.
- It is recommended to pick the first flowers from young plants - then the second crop will have a tasty and large berry. The repair strawberry bears fruit for 2-3 years on condition of constant feeding, frequent watering and regular loosening of the soil.
- Before frost the plants should be watered, loosened the soil and fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
The repair strawberry is a separate category. Planting and caring for it is not difficult, but the harvest is collected during the whole season. This species includes:
If aphids are found on strawberries, they fight with a special solution, the ingredients of which are a few cloves of garlic and 3 liters of water. This solution must be infused week, after which the bushes are processed through bryzgalku.
It is more difficult to care for landings when birds encroach on them. But here experts advise one original way: on the beds and around them you just have to spread out the small red glass balls that are used in interior design. Birds will try to peck them, but then they will not touch the ripe berries, taking them for hard and completely tasteless balls.
The best time for planting these varieties is spring, but in fact it can be done both in summer and in autumn. Before this, it is important to add up to 70 g to the soil of superphosphate, up to 30 g of ammonium nitrate and up to 30 g of potassium salt per 1 m2.
Site preparation, which consists in the application of 10 kg of rotted humus (manure) and 50 g of mineral fertilizers per 1 m2 of land.
Late Dutch variety "Vicodus", giving juicy and tasty berries up to 120 g in weight, similar to the cockscomb. This species ripens in mid-July, practically “without a mustache”, which makes it easy to care for it. It has increased frost resistance, which makes it the best candidate for growing in areas with a cold climate.
Yield and size of the fruit.
Growing remontant strawberries involves the implementation of some simple steps. For example, a gardener should know when to prune and how to care for the remontant strawberries. But in order to provide the roots with much-needed air exchange, you should constantly loosen the soil near the bushes. Periodically you need to add the earth, so that the roots are not bare. This strawberry variety needs to be watered not only with a watering can, but also with a dipper.
Landing in the ground
To grow strawberries and strawberries can be on the garden or greenhouse, you only need to ensure proper care, protection from pests that can simply destroy the crop. Repair strawberries are prone to attacks such as:
Lyubava is a strawberry that can ripen on rosettes and mother bushes, differs in oval-rhombic berries of medium size and weight. The taste of them is thin, dessert, the flesh is very dense. The advantages are simple care, resistance to low temperatures, high yield.
In late autumn (late October - beginning of November), remove all the yellow and bad leaves on the plants, and so that the bushes do not freeze in winter - sprinkle them with straw or hay, but so that the foliage is not covered. With severe frosts, you can wrap completely. But if it is not so cold in your region, it is better not to do this, because with a slight warming, the kidneys can start growing. And then the strawberry just freezes out if frost picks it up,
Land for such strawberries should be fertile, well-drained, ideally - light loamy, saline and alkaline soil will not work. If the soil is heavy, it can be diluted with sand and peat.
Now on my site already 14 beds-slides with remontant strawberries. They can be located anywhere, if only the land was loose and fertile in composition.
Watering remontant strawberries produced with warm water daily, as she loves moisture, after which it is necessary to loosen the soil.
Biological description and appearance
"Garland" can be found not only in the gardens. She regularly pleases the eye to the owners of ornamental gardens and landscape parks. A botanical description will help to find out why this variety is valued not only by berry lovers, but also by the owners of decorative plantings.
The bush has almost the correct spherical shape. The density of leaves is average, which is typical of many remontant varieties. The leaves are smooth, have a green color with a slight bluish tinge. They are completely covered with whitish pubescence, have moderate ribbing.
Inflorescences are localized near the leaves, have a multi-flowered type. Mustache different greenish-pink color. The bush is not tall, but a large number of whiskers form on it, which allows the flowers to grow on new sockets. Strawberry "Garland" has high decorative qualities. This branching plant is a true decoration of decorative parks, verandas, balconies and rock gardens.
Berries that ripen in the early stages of the growing season are often of large size (large - up to 30 g, maximum oval and fragrant). In the future, the strawberry becomes oblong, but the strawberry flavor does not lose until the end of the growing season. The surface of the berries has a moderate shine and red-pink color.The flesh is quite juicy and soft. The interior of ripe berries is distinguished by a light red tint, juiciness and a high degree of density. Practically at all stages of the growing season, the average number of berries on one bush remains constant, which attracts lovers of remontant strawberry varieties.
Drought resistance and frost resistance
This variety of strawberries has an average degree of drought resistance. In regions with hot summers and minimal rainfall, “Garland” will bear fruit less efficiently. To normalize these indicators, plantings should be properly maintained: they should be planted in partial shade areas, should be watered regularly and moderately, and often mulched.
Ripening period and yield
“Garland” is a highly productive and strong variety of strawberries, which, under ideal conditions of care and in the corresponding climatic zone, bears fruit from early May to mid-October. Average yields on large plantations reach 1–1.2 kg of berries from each bush. Some entrepreneurs slightly increase these indicators using special equipment for alternate fertilizers and irrigation.
Berries varieties "Garland" refers to dietary products (100 g contains only 46 kcal). This strawberry can be eaten raw, mashed with the addition of sour cream, prepare juices and liqueurs. Many people prefer to freeze fragrant strawberry berries in order to feast on strawberry dessert in a snowy winter evening. By the way, from berries of a grade of "Garland" excellent home-made wine, marmalade and even candied fruits turn out.
How to choose strawberry seedlings when buying
It is best to buy seedlings of garden strawberries at proven nurseries, which have a lot of positive reviews and provide a guarantee for their goods. You can purchase seedlings at different times of the year. If you make a purchase in early summer, then in August you can get the first harvest. Autumn buying and planting are rarely made, because then strawberry bushes will begin to bear fruit only in a year. It is best to buy seedlings "Garland" in early spring. In this case, you can get the first harvest by the beginning of the first month of summer.
Garden strawberries are unstable to various diseases. This should be considered when choosing seedlings, as some seedlings may already be infected, for example, with powdery mildew. At the time of purchase, it is necessary to evaluate the health of seedlings and pay attention to the following nuances:
- Leaf spotting indicates the presence of a fungal disease. In the spring, it is better not to buy such seedlings, but at the end of summer a small fine spot on the leaves is quite acceptable.
- Do not buy seedlings whose leaves are wrinkled. This indicates the defeat of plants microscopic strawberry mite.
- Seedlings with pale leaves to buy is strictly prohibited. This feature most likely indicates a dangerous disease - late blight necrosis.
VIDEO: HOW TO CHOOSE THE STRAWBERRY SEEDLINGS
Below we present a number of features that meet the quality healthy strawberry seedlings:
- The leaves are green, strongly pubescent, have no spotting and damage.
- The horn must be thick (at least 7 mm). The thicker the horn, the higher the degree of yield of the strawberry bush.
- The root system of seedlings in cups or cassettes should completely fill the soil volume.
- At least 3 leaves should be formed on the outlet.
- Roots must be healthy, have no damage and rot. Rot indicates the presence of a fungal disease.
Experts say that the maximum yield of strawberries falls on the first 3 years after planting. That is why the bushes are recommended to replant or transplant every 4 years. Ideal predecessors of the Garland variety are:
Planting work in the spring should be as early as possible. In the southern regions of Russia and Ukraine, as well as in Moldova, seedlings can be planted at the end of March. In other regions, it is necessary to wait for the moment when night frosts will completely disappear. In general, planting strawberries "Garland" in the open ground can be from late March to mid-October.
Autumn planting is best done only when the average daily temperature is set at +2. +4 ° C. At higher temperatures, the bushes will begin to bloom and may die. In summer, planting starts in the evening and preferably on an overcast day. Under the hot rays of the sun unadapted seedlings fade quickly and die.
So that the strawberry “Garland” got accustomed on your site and was distinguished by high yield, you should follow these planting rules:
- Garden strawberries of this variety are best planted in open ground in spring.
- This variety of strawberries is strongly branched, and when planting, you need to keep a distance of 70–80 cm between the holes. Thickened plantings will lead to the fact that there is little sunlight inside the bush.
- The depth of the landing holes should be 40–45 cm.
- In each well, be sure to make a small mound.
- As soon as the root system of the seedlings is covered with earth, the upper layer must be compacted. After this procedure requires abundant watering.
- In the first 7–10 days after planting, plantation with strawberries should be watered daily. If there is a hot sunny weather outside, then in the daytime the beds should be pritenyat.
VIDEO: AUTUMN LANDING STRAWBERRY
Many summer residents and gardeners know that it is necessary to care for remontant strawberry varieties more carefully and throughout the growing season. Otherwise, fruiting will not be so active, and strawberry plantations can affect various pests and diseases.
There are some basic rules for caring for the remontant garden strawberry "Garland":
- On hot summer days, watering should be done every 2–3 days. Under each bush pour about 2 liters of warm water. During the rainy season irrigation activities are suspended. We should not forget about fertilizing berry bushes with liquid fertilizers (during irrigation, using, for example, herbal infusions characterized by a rich composition of macro- and microelements).
- Some time after precipitation or irrigation, the soil around strawberry bushes needs to be loosened. Such procedures improve soil aeration and prevent the development of fungal diseases of the root system of plants.
- Weeding should be carried out as weeds appear. They often appear after a period of rain and prevent strawberries from producing fruit normally. Прополку проводить аккуратно, только поверхностно, дабы не повредить корни земляничных кустов. Сразу после прополки старайтесь удалять некоторые лишние усы, которые вытягивают на себя много полезных элементов и ухудшают общий уровень отдачи урожая.
- В период активного плодоношения «Гирлянду» нужно подкармливать для стимуляции образования новых завязей. As a top dressing, it is recommended to use extracts of mullein and chicken manure, which must first be diluted in water at a ratio of 1:10 and 1:12, respectively.
- To combat diseases and pests should be carried out appropriate preventive measures. Mulching allows you to protect the root system of the bushes. As mulch, you can use fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, or small coniferous twigs. Mulching of strawberries
- For the winter period the strawberry plantation needs to be warmed. To do this, you can use a mound of snow, fir branches, or straw. Lapnik is considered to be the most preferable option, as good air permeability is maintained under its thick layer.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of strawberries "Garland" include the following:
- high yield and a long fruiting period,
- the decorative beauty of the bushes, which allows the use of strawberries for decorating gardens, balconies and parks,
- the tastes of the berries at tasting received the highest estimated points,
- berries of this grade of strawberry contain a large amount of vitamins, minerals and other useful substances.
- the average level of drought resistance and frost resistance, poorly adapted to the severe winter frosts of the northern part of Russia,
- poor immune defense against powdery mildew,
- high risk of fungal diseases, especially in the period of long heavy rains.
Now you know how to choose and plant strawberries "Garland" on your site. Remember that only proper and timely care for planting will allow you to collect the maximum amount of tasty harvest throughout the growing season of strawberries.
- 1. Listen to the article (soon)
- 2. Description
- 3. Landing
- 3.1. When to plant
- 3.2. The soil
- 3.3. Landing in spring
- 3.4. Planting in the fall
- 4. Care
- 4.1. Growing up
- 4.2. Strawberries during flowering
- 4.3. Watering
- 4.4. Top dressing
- 4.5. When to transplant
- 4.6. Strawberries after harvest
- 5. Reproduction
- 5.1. Breeding whiskers
- 5.2. Seed propagation
- 5.3. Dividing bush
- 6. Trimming
- 6.1. When to trim
- 6.2. How to trim
- 7. Strawberries in autumn
- 8. Pests and Diseases
- 8.1. Diseases
- 8.2. Pests
- 8.3. Treatment
- 9. Grades
Planting and care for strawberries (in short)
- Landing: throughout the growing season, but the best time is early autumn and late summer.
- Bloom: from the middle of May.
- Lighting: bright sunshine.
- The soil: any, except for marshy and too dry sandy soil, but moist, nourishing and breathable sandy and light loamy soils of weakly acidic reaction are preferable.
- Watering: regular and abundant, preferably by sprinkling. On average - 1 time in 7-10 days, and during the filling of berries - 1 time in 5 days.
- Top dressing: The first is in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer at the rate of 1-2 liters for a young and 2-5 liters for an adult bush. The second - in the period of emergence of peduncles: a solution of bird droppings fermented during the week (1:20) or mullein (1: 6) with 1 cup of ash added to one bucket. The expense is the same. The same composition is used for top dressing at the beginning of flowering, and in the middle of August a solution of half a cup of ash and 50 g of daily superphosphate extraction in 10 l of water are introduced into the soil. Top dressings bring in previously moistened soil, trying to keep the drops from falling on the flowers and leaves.
- Transfer: once in 4-5 years in September.
- Breeding: rosettes, dividing the bush, at least - seed method.
- Pests: raspberry-raspberry and nettle-weevil, strawberry and spider mites, aphid, stem and strawberry nematodes, wasps, birds, slugs and snails.
- Diseases: late blight, fusarium, powdery mildew (belle), gray rot (botrytis), brown, brown and white leaf spot, leathery (late blight) rot, verticillis, black, brown and white rot, anthracnosis.
Garden strawberries - description
The root system of a strawberry is well developed, branched, fibrous. The leaves of the strawberry are large, green, trifoliate, on petioles up to 25 cm long. The ground part of the strawberry has three types of shoots:
- - horns, shortened annual shoots with apical bud - heart. The horns also have a side axillary and a rosette of several leaves,
- - strawberry whiskers - creeping annual shoots, which are organs of vegetative propagation. A mustache appears when the flowering period comes to an end,
- - flower stalks growing from generative buds in April.
Multi-flowered corymbose inflorescences consist of five-petal bisexual white flowers. In some varieties of strawberries peduncles above the stems. The fruit of the strawberry, which we call the berry, is an expanded receptacle, on the surface of which are small brownish nuts - the real fruits of strawberries. The berries come in all shades of red, although there are varieties with white or pink fruits with reddish or white flesh. At one place the plant can be grown for 4-5 years. In terms of vitamin C content, strawberries from the berries are inferior only to black currants, and the content of folic acid in its fruits is higher than in grapes or raspberries. Strawberries contain iron four times more than apples or pineapples.
From our article you will learn how to grow strawberries in the garden, how to care for strawberries, that is, how to water strawberries in a dry season and how to feed strawberries during flowering to achieve a rich harvest, what kind of fertilizer for strawberries is preferable - we will try to tell everything what a newbie might need if he decided to cultivate this berry, which has recently become as popular as strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, blackberries and blueberries.
When to plant strawberries.
Strawberries can be planted in the ground during the growing season, but the best time for this is the end of summer or early autumn and early spring. If you plant strawberries in late August or early September, it will take root perfectly until winter and will produce crops next year. However, in areas with unstable frosty and conceived snowless winter it is better to plant strawberries in the spring as soon as the soil warms up. Plot for strawberries choose sunny. Do not plant strawberries after potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers. You can not grow strawberries on the site, where last year grew tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other nightshade. It is not advisable to plant next to raspberries.
Soil for strawberries.
Strawberries do not have any particular requirements for the soil: with good care, it can grow everywhere except swampy areas and too dry sandy areas, but if you have the opportunity to choose, then it is better to plant garden strawberries on slightly acid light loamy or sandy soil, it is important that were fairly moist, nutritious and breathable. Do not fit plant areas where water can stagnate. It is desirable that under the beds with strawberry groundwater lay no higher than 70-80 cm. The pH of the soil should be in the range of 4.5-5.5 units. The best predecessors for strawberries are legumes, onions, garlic, marigolds, lupins, oats, rye, peas, beets, carrots, radishes, radishes, parsley and dill. But after cucumbers, solanaceous and cruciferous crops, it is better not to plant strawberries on the plot.
Planting strawberries in spring.
Spring planting of strawberries requires preparation of the site since the fall: they dig forks to a depth of 25-30 cm, choosing rhizomes of weeds and adding organic matter for digging - 5 kg of compost, peat or rotted manure per m². In addition to organic matter, full mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil at the rate of 40 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 5 kg of wood ash per m². Moreover, during spring planting, organic matter is applied in the fall, and mineral fertilizers in the spring. If the soil on the site is highly fertile, fertilizer can not be applied.
They plant large-fruited strawberries at a distance of 20–30 cm between bushes in a row, keeping inter-row widths of 70–80 cm, small-fruited varieties are planted according to the 20 x 30 cm scheme. Make dimples about 20 cm in diameter and 25–30 cm deep, pour each about a liter of water and immediately lower the bush into it. Then fill the hole with soil and lightly tamp it. It is necessary to dig the seedlings into the soil along the root neck, however, it is necessary to ensure that the heart is not immersed in the soil, otherwise the plant starts to roar and rot. If the shrub is not deep enough in the soil, the plant may die from the drying of the roots. After landing the aisle should be well loosened.
If you plant strawberries in dry soil, water it before it takes root, another two or three times. This should be done daily in the evenings. In addition, at first, strawberry bushes need to be protected from direct sunlight.
Planting strawberries in the fall.
Plot for autumn planting strawberries are prepared for two or three weeks. The preparation procedure is the same as for the autumn planting, only organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil at the same time, and in this case a half dose of mineral fertilizers will suffice. Strawberry seedlings are planted in the same manner as in spring, but after the bushes take root, the rows between the rows are covered in winter with a layer of rotted straw or manure 8-10cm thick, so that the strawberry roots do not freeze.
Growing strawberries in the ground involves weeding, hilling and loosening between rows, watering and feeding, prophylactic or therapeutic treatment of diseases and pests, as well as trimming bushes and preparing the site for the winter. Sometimes plants of last year's planting in winter are pushed out of the soil by frost, and in the spring, as soon as conditions allow, we have to sprinkle their roots with soil and lightly tread it, after which it is advisable to hold the first row spraying around the bushes in the year. Subsequently, the bed is weeded and loosened as soon as a crust forms on the surface of the earth or weeds appear. During the growing season, it is necessary to loosen the aisles 7-8 times, and the soil around the bushes - at least 5 times. Reducing the complexity of the care of strawberries will help you mulch the site with reed, woody leaves, peat or rotted straw. This measure protects the soil from the formation of a crust and significantly reduces the amount on the bed of weeds. Shrubs that grow in one place for five or more years, it is desirable to transplant to another site.
Strawberries during flowering.
The flowering of strawberries begins a week or two after the appearance of the flower arrow or 25-30 days after the start of the growing season. One inflorescence is usually formed from each heart, in each shield there are from five to twenty seven flowers. One flower lives from 4 to 6 days, but the process of flowering beds can last up to three weeks - the duration depends on temperature, humidity, light intensity and the length of daylight, nutrition and varieties of strawberries. Caring for strawberries during flowering does not differ any features. Fruiting strawberries occurs one month after the start of flowering.
Growing strawberries requires regular and sufficient watering, because strawberries are moisture-loving. The best way to watering is artificial sprinkling. You can also make grooves with a depth of about 12 cm in the center of each aisle, pour water into it, and then seal the grooves and loosen the area. If you are watering strawberries from a watering can, then remove the divider from it and pour water under the roots of the bushes, trying not to fall on the leaves. Water should be the same temperature as the air, and if you have the opportunity, try to pass it through a magnet - this measure helps to increase the yield and size of the berries. To determine whether it is time to water the strawberries, check the soil moisture at a depth of 20-30 cm: if the soil crumbles in your hands, this means that the plant needs moisture. On average, the interval between waterings of growing bushes should be from 7 to 10 days, and when the berries start pouring, the time interval is reduced to 5 days. In rainy weather, the timing has to be adjusted in accordance with the condition of the soil.
Top dressing of wild strawberry.
To ensure good growth and high yield of strawberries, it is necessary to apply regular feeding. How to feed strawberries? Organic matter is used as a fertilizer - humus, ash, bird droppings, as well as mineral fertilizers. The first dressing is carried out in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, and it consists of 1-2 liters of a solution of complex mineral fertilizer on a young bush of strawberries and from 2-5 liters on an adult bush.
The second dressing is applied in the period of emergence of peduncles: mullein is diluted 6 times, and bird droppings - 20 times, the solution is fermented for a week, then half a glass of wood ash is added to 10 liters of solution. Fertilizer consumption, as with the first feeding.
When the strawberries bloom, it is fed with the same fertilizer as before flowering, but the mullein is bred not in 6, but 8 times.
In mid-August, the strawberries plant flower buds for the next year, and at this time the nitrogen component is excluded from top dressing so that the strawberries do not start growing. In 10 l of water dissolve 50 g of daily extraction of superphosphate and add the same half cup of ash. Do not use fertilizer containing chlorine for fertilizing, as strawberries react to it negatively.
Before each feeding area should be watered, without wetting the leaves of plants or hearts. The repair strawberry requires more feedings than ordinary plant varieties, since already during the ripening of the first crop, the buds of future crops start to develop.
When to transplant strawberries.
As already mentioned, strawberry transplantation takes place once every 4-5 years, and remontant grapes require more frequent transplantation - every two years, and the best time for this is September. The transplantation is carried out in the same order as the initial planting: strawberry seedlings are lowered into prepared holes, which are then dropped so that the hearts remain above the surface level. Before the onset of cold weather, the aisles are mulched to protect the roots of strawberries from frost.
Strawberries after harvest.
When the fruiting of strawberries ends, the bushes begin to intensively grow leaves and whiskers. In the same period, plants accumulate nutrients that they will need in the winter, as well as form new fruit buds. At this time, it is very important to create optimal conditions for strawberries - abundant nutrition and optimal humidity.
Breeding strawberries with a mustache.
When the mustache begins to grow after the strawberry, the soil around the bushes is weeded, watered and loosened, the pair of annual or two-year healthy rosettes closest to the mother bush are slightly pressed into the soil, sprinkled with loose earth in such a way that the heart does not fall asleep and allow them to root. In September, rooted sockets are dug out and transplanted to a permanent place. Sometimes the sockets are separated and reared on distributing beds under a canopy of lutrasil protecting them from the sun, and only 3-4 leaves are left on the sockets with roots, and only two leaves are left for those that do not have roots so that the plants do not spend food for their development, and directed all forces on the growth of roots. After two weeks, the canopy is removed, and in September, the sockets with an earthy clod are transplanted to a strawberry bed.
If you decide to buy seedlings of strawberries, keep in mind that a good seedling should have at least three leaves, a well-developed horn and roots about 5 cm long.
Seed propagation of strawberries.
Large-fruited and small-fruited wild-growing remontant varieties propagate generatively. Strawberry seeds are sown in March on a wet, compacted compost and gently press them to the surface. The container with crops is covered with glass or poenka and kept for three days in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, and then moved to a warm place with a temperature of 18-20 ºC. From time to time the soil is moistened through a sprayer. When shoots appear in about a month, the glass is removed, the container is moved closer to the light, and the temperature is lowered by 3-4 degrees for a week, after which the old temperature is restored to 18-20 ºC. In the developmental stage of 3-4 leaves, strawberry seedlings dive in peat-peppered pots, and in the second half of May, when the threat of recurrent frosts is past, seedlings after pre-hardening are planted on a bed.
Breeding strawberries by dividing the bush.
By dividing the bush, or by partitioning, also propagate the wild forms of strawberries. In the spring or after fruiting, strong, well-developed strawberry bushes are dug out, cleaned their roots from the ground, cut with a knife so that there is a horn on each divide, good white roots 5-6 cm long and at least three leaves. Old, darkened roots are pruned, after which the delenki are seated according to the previously described scheme.
When prune strawberries.
On the question of whether to cut the strawberries, the views of gardeners differ. Some argue that this must be done necessarily, others believe that it is not necessary to trim. On the one hand, the leaves feed the bush, that is, the more leaves, the stronger the plant. But on the other hand, after the fruiting, strawberries should be prepared to yield next year, and the mustaches and outlets that grow after fruiting deprive the bushes of the strength and nourishment necessary for the formation of the next year's fruit cells. Вот поэтому обрезка земляники абсолютно необходимая процедура. Однако без листьев кустам не выжить в зимние морозы, поскольку они являются теплоизолятором, предотвращающим вымерзание грядок.
Strawberries are a perennial plant. Its leaves gradually dry out, and new ones grow in their place. The cycle of replacing old leaves with new ones lasts about 60 days. Pruned leaves immediately after harvesting the main crop, in August, without waiting for the remnants of berries to ripen, and then the onset of cold weather will have time to acquire new leaves. If you have tightened with pruning and are afraid that the new leaves will not have time to grow, do not prune the old ones, let them remain in the garden.
How to cut strawberries.
The leaves are cut off near the ground so that pests or pathogens do not settle in their remains. Cut leaves and mustaches are sent to a compost pit, but if you notice the presence of pests or signs of illness, then it is better to burn them.
If you are properly caring for your garden, and your plants do not affect any pests of strawberries, or disease, you can not prune it annually, do it once every two or three years. It is better not to prune young bushes at all, because pruning weakens them a lot.
Strawberries in autumn
After pruning, the beds with strawberries are treated with insecticides and fungicides for the purpose of prophylaxis. The plants growing new leaf mass need watering, weeding and loosening, and the roots of strawberries need fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers.
Before the onset of cold weather in areas with a cool climate, strawberry beds are covered with a continuous layer of straw manure or fallen leaves 5-7 cm thick to protect the leaves and roots of plants from freezing in the case of a snowless and freezing winter.
In the southern regions, they are taking this method of protecting strawberries: in the spring from east to west, every 4-5 rows of strawberries sow scenes from sorghum. Thus, strawberries in summer are shaded by the scenes from the hot sun, and in winter they contribute to snow retention, which allows not only to protect strawberries from frost, but also to accumulate moisture in the ground.
Diseases of strawberries.
Unfortunately, garden strawberries, often exposed to various diseases (they are the same as strawberries), with the most frequent of which we are ready to introduce you:
Fusarium wilt affects both the ground part of the plant and the root system, which is why the plant gradually changes color, fades and dries. Ovaries stop growing, leaves and whiskers darken. It promotes the development of heat fungus, and the source of the disease can be weeds, some vegetable crops, or soil in which the fungus can remain viable for several years if you do not take the trouble to remove plant residues from the site in time.
Control measures. Observe a crop rotation and carefully choose predecessors. As soon as symptoms of the disease appear, immediately treat the beds with Fundazole or Benorad,
Verticillary wilting, if not eradicated, it can kill half of the bushes on the plantation in 2-3 years. The plant's vascular system, root neck, rosette and roots suffer from this fungal disease. First, the diseased shrub “settles”, then its leaves fall, and leaves appear in the center of the bush, as if affected by chlorosis. At the cut of the rhizome, you can see the brown ring of vessels. Most often the disease manifests itself during the growth of the ovary. The main source of pathogens is soil, but weeds and other vegetable crops also tolerate it.
Control measures. Observe crop rotation, with the manifestations of the disease, treat the plants with Fundazole or Benorad, using a drip irrigation system.
Late blight is the redness of the axial cylinder of the root. The disease manifests itself in the dry days of the beginning of summer by the withering of plants, which begins with the lower leaves. In this case, the axial cylinder of the root turns red, the lateral roots die over time, and the large roots turn black in the lower part and become similar to a rat tail. The foliage becomes bluish-reddish and begins to fade prematurely, and the young leaves become shallow. The causative agent of the disease penetrates the root system from the soil, and the mycelium of the fungus develops in the wood of the root, expanding and filling the conductive tissue. Sometimes you can bring the disease to the site with planting material.
Control measures. To avoid late blight of the roots, observe crop rotation, use only healthy seedlings for breeding. As a preventive measure, the treatment of the site with trichoderma through a drip irrigation system is also used, and the diseased plants and the soil under them should be treated with Ridomil or Quadris,
Late blight (leathery) rot can negatively affect the quantity and quality of the crop, reducing it by 15-20%, and sometimes completely ruining it. This rot affects all terrestrial parts of the plant - buds, inflorescences, fruits, leaves, tops of stems and growing points. The berries on the diseased bushes become bitter, on the green fruits form hard light brown spots. Gradually, the fruit dries and mummified. In wet weather, a thick white deposit is formed on the affected organs. Stem coarsens and dies. The disease usually manifests itself in June, and reaches its maximum development by July.
Control measures. Observe the crop rotation, carefully select the seedlings, do not violate the rules of strawberry care, and in case of the symptoms of the disease, treat the plants and the soil beneath them with Quadris, Ridomil or Metaxil.
Gray rot or botrytis common everywhere. In those years when summer is especially warm and humid, under conditions favorable to it (in thickened plantings with poor ventilation, in areas where strawberries are grown for many years) gray mold can destroy half the crop of berries. The disease is affected by leaves, buds, berries, flowers, ovaries and stalks: soft brown spots appear on them, which very quickly increase in size. The berries dry and mummify, the stalk and ovary are covered with weeping spots. Strawberry rots.
Control measures. As a preventive measure, the site is sprayed in the spring with Topsin M, Derozal, Euparin or Switch. After flowering, if the summer was rainy, the treatment is repeated. Well, and, of course, bushes affected by gray rot will have to be removed from the site and burned so that the infection does not spread to other plants,
Powdery mildew, or bel, affects leaves, scapes, whiskers and strawberries, starting its development on the underside of leaf plates. Powdery mildew can be determined by a loose white bloom covering the affected parts of the plant. Subsequently, necrosis of brown color or “tan” on the lower side of the plate appears on these places. Whiskers curl, leaves look chlorotic, berries turn out dry, ugly and underdeveloped, have a smell and taste of mushrooms.
Control measures. As soon as you notice signs of the disease, treat the site with Switch, Fundazol or Bayleton.
In addition to the above, they affect strawberries and such diseases as anthracnose, spotting (brown, white or brown), black, root and white rot.
Pests in strawberries, too, abound. Let's talk about those that most often annoy you and the plant:
Strawberry raspberry weevil - almost black, tiny bug up to 3 mm long, which spends the winter under fallen leaves or in clumps of soil. In the spring, after awakening, he eats strawberry leaves, gnawing holes on them, and females lay eggs in buds. Weevil on strawberries is a real disaster, since one female can lay from 50 to 100 eggs per season, and the larvae, which have appeared, gnaw buds, depriving you of the long-awaited harvest of berries.
Nettle-weevil bright green and reaches a length of 12 mm. He figuratively eats the edges of the leaves. Its larvae in the second half of summer damage the roots of strawberries.
Control measures. No later than a week before the start of flowering and immediately after collecting the berries, treat the plants with a solution of Karbofos, Decis, Spark or Confidor. Destroy plant residues and do not forget to loosen the aisles,
Strawberry Mite damages the leaves of the plant, making them look oily and frowning. Berries of strawberries become smaller, bushes strongly affected by mites die. The greatest number of ticks reach in August. For the season they give four to five generations.
Control measures. Before planting, seedlings warm them for about 15 minutes in warm water at about 45 ºC, then rinse them in cold water and dry them in the shade. In early spring, diseased plants are treated with a solution of 60 g of colloidal sulfur in 10 liters of water at the rate of up to 2 liters per 1 m². The second treatment from ticks is carried out with a solution of 5 ml of Neoron in 5 liters of water 10 days before flowering, spending 1 l per 10 m². If the entire area is infected with a tick, after harvesting, the leaves of the plants are mown and burned, the soil is abundantly moistened, and then fertilizers are applied. Then the plot is treated with a solution of 60 g of Malathion in 10 liters of water,
Stem and strawberry nematode also cause significant damage to strawberries. The stem nematode is a transparent worm up to 1 mm long, damaging the stems, petioles and leaf veins from the inside, causing them to swell. As a result of their vital activity, the affected parts become shorter and warp, start to lag behind in growth, frown, crack and die. Strawberry nematode settles in the axils of the leaves and in the kidneys of strawberries, which causes the peduncles and leaf petioles to shorten, thicken and bend. Fruits on diseased bushes do not form or look ugly.
Control measures. Nematodes scares calendula, so it is advisable to plant it on the bed with strawberries. Sick bushes must be removed and burned. As a preventive measure, purchased seedlings are washed with water so that there is no soil left on the roots, then the seedlings are immersed in a brine for 15 minutes (5 tablespoons per 5 liters of water), rinsed and planted in the ground.
In addition to the pests that we have described, slugs and snails, red ants, centipedes, cycadads and other pests are also dangerous for strawberries.
In order for diseases and pests of strawberries to forget the way to your garden, try to annually carry out preventive treatments of the plantation in early spring and autumn. In the spring, before spraying a garden bed, remove the remnants of last year’s mulch from it, cut and burn all last year’s leaves, and only then treat the planting with copper preparations such as XOM, Bordeaux mixture, Chorus. The following prophylactic treatment is carried out before flowering, then at the time of mass regrowth of foliage, then one or two with an interval of 2 weeks after flowering. For insects, strawberries are sprayed with Topsin M, Quadris, Fundadazole or a similar fungicide, and as a preventive measure against pests, they are treated with Actellica, Envidor, Calypso or their analogues. The number of treatments is dictated by the infectious background of the site - the higher it is, the more often they carry out preventive spraying of strawberries.
If you are going to grow strawberries on your plot, you must first decide on the choice of varieties, which are countless. Ideal varieties do not exist, since each has both advantages and disadvantages. One of the famous breeders believes that the ideal variety should include 56 characteristics, each of which will suit you. Today it is impossible, but work in this direction is underway.
By the time of ripening, the strawberry is divided into early, mid-ripening, late and remontant, and it is enough to have five varieties of different ripening periods on the site so that the harvest is stable and the berries can be eaten all summer. We offer you an acquaintance with some varieties, among which, quite possibly, you will choose one for yourself.
Mid-season varieties of strawberries:
- – Lord - high-yielding, frost-resistant, self-pollinating and resistant to gray rot large-fruited variety of English selection with an extended period of ripening and fruit loading. The berries are rounded-conical, bright red, sweet and fragrant, the flesh is dense,
- – Fruitful - as the name suggests, a high-yielding, large-fruited, winter-resistant and fungus-resistant variety with beautiful and tasty berries that do not shrink to the last harvest,
- – Venta - super-elite high-yielding and frost-resistant Baltic variety with very beautiful and large berries of a round shape of bright red color, which become dark red in strong heat. The variety is tick resistant,
- – Juan - One of the most large-fruited varieties with very large berries, sometimes reaching the size of an average apple. The berries are round, bright red, shiny. Pulp very dense very sweet, light red color. The variety has frost resistance and high yield, as well as the ability to adapt to adverse weather conditions,
- – Cambridge Favorite - English fruitful and fungus-resistant variety with large, shiny, leveled berries of the correct round-conical shape of bright red color. The pulp is dense, light red color, sweet-sour taste, very tasty.
In addition to these, mid-ripening varieties are also known, such as Junia Sides, Holiday, Masha, Gigantella, Festivalnaya, Fireworks, Pearl clavier, Corona, Polka, Tago, Suzy, Figaro, Anapolis, Marshal, Darlelect, Elsanta, Sultan, Turida and others.
Late varieties of strawberries:
- – Borovitskaya - self-fertile, disease-resistant, high-yielding and winter-hardy variety with very large, dark red twin berries with a groove in the middle. The pulp is dense, juicy, dessert taste,
- – Wim Tarda - high-yielding, large-fruited. winter-hardy and disease-resistant Dutch variety with very large, shiny, blunt-pointed berries. The flesh is dark red, unusually tasty. The berries do not shrink until the last harvest,
- – Red Gauntlet - winter-hardy, high-yielding and disease-resistant variety of medium-ripening English selection with wide-conical large dark red shiny berries. The flesh is bright pink, dense, sweet and aromatic,
- – Vicoda - one of the best winter-hardy Dutch varieties of this group, resistant to white mold and spotting. Berries weighing up to 120 g of a cribriform form, dense, dark red, very tasty,
- – Wima xima - one of the new Dutch varieties with large, very beautiful and sweet berries of dark red color. The flesh is also dark red, dense and juicy. The variety is resistant to disease, high yield. Wima Xima forms little whiskers, which greatly facilitates the care of strawberries in the garden.
Later varieties of strawberries are also popular Bohemia, Maxim, Symphony, Mize Schindler, Mara de Bois, Chandler, Chamora Turusi, Maestro, Princess Diana, Carnival, Profjuzhen, as well as varieties with white berries Pineberry and Anablanca.
Rehabilitative strawberry varieties, or neutral day varieties:
- – Brighton - winter-resistant and fungus-resistant American variety, the flowering and fruiting of which is not affected by the length of daylight. The period of its constant fruiting is 10 months. The berries are red, as varnished, large, sweet-sour taste,
- – Crimean Remontant - one of the best varieties of remontant strawberries, winter-hardy, disease-resistant and fruit-bearing from the end of May until the cold weather, and the berries do not decrease in size until the last harvest. When fully ripe, the fruits get the smell of wild strawberry. The berries are very beautiful, dark red, dense and juicy,
- – Queen Elizabeth II - today this grade is the best of remontant ones. His berries are large, fragrant and dense. The variety has widespread popularity among gardeners,
- – Garland - variety domestic, from new, continuously flowering and fruiting, regardless of the length of daylight and weather conditions. The berries are large, dense, very fragrant and tasty. The variety can be grown in vertical culture - on the trellis or in hanging pots,
- – A pineapple - disease-resistant Polish variety, fruiting for the first time in mid-May, and the second - in late October. Berries of orange color of the cubical form, reaching 60 g in mass, have the aroma and taste of wild strawberry.
Roma described, to the best repair strawberry varieties Consul, Felicia, Aisha, Albion, Thelma, Florin, Evi Delight, Sweet Evi, Royal Visit, Autumn Fun, Selva and others.
Plot dig a couple of weeks before planting. It is important that the earth be compacted by this time.
- The variety "red gontlet" from Scotland is unusually fruitful, mid-term, with very large juicy berries of dark red color. It is resistant to diseases, winter-hardy, unpretentious.
- Currently, breeders from all over the world have developed many beautiful varieties, but there is no ideal type that matches all soils, climate and seasons. Planting and care, garden strawberry breeding depends on its variety, and that, in turn, from the ripening time.
- When the bushes are blooming, they should be fertilized on a mandatory basis with minerals intended for strawberries and an infusion of bird droppings.
- Aphids, to fight with which is very simple. You must take a couple of heads of garlic, pour them with three liters of plain cold water and insist all week. With a similar prepared solution, it is necessary to spray all the affected bushes with the help of spraying. Посевы в этом случае будут спасены, насекомые погибнут быстро, не успев заразить остальные посадки.
- Сельва - это сорт клубники с высоким потенциалом продуктивности. Ягоды очень ароматные, правильной формы, цветение обильное. Сорт отличается требовательным уходом, так как полив должен быть регулярным и достаточно строгим. If the care does not meet all standards, the taste of the berries will be bad, and the size is small.
- For early fruiting, with the onset of spring, the beds can be covered with foil or spunbond.
An area where peas, parsley, rapeseed, mustard or radish were previously grown will be a great place to plant a remontant berry.