Any plants, indoor, or those that we grow on your site, except for the positive moments, always throw us some problems. Spathiphyllum, with improper care for him, has many “ailments” that manifest themselves in various ways. Of course, in order for the plant to feel well in the future and not to die, all these “ailments” must be treated. And in order to treat them, you first need to find out why, for example, the leaves turn yellow, or other reasons for deviations from the normal state of the plant. This is what we will do.
Spathiphyllum. The main problems in the care at home
It cannot be said that the spathiphyllum plant is extremely fractious, it would be untrue. But, everything, and he gives us sometimes unpleasant surprises. If you do something wrong, then the leaves of the spathiphyllum immediately react to it. It is by their condition that one can find out what is missing. Quite often they turn yellow, turn black, almost completely discolor, or lose their turgor. All this, of course, indicates only one thing - you have made serious mistakes in the care of this plant, which must be urgently corrected, and must be avoided in the future. One article on the site about the problems of spathiphyllum is already there, namely, what to do when it does not bloom. I think you will find it interesting too, read. Now, let's talk about the other problems.
This is the first problem that occurs with spathiphyllum quite often. In this case, not one leaf turns yellow, but such yellowing occurs massively. Of course, such a process does not add decorativeness to the appearance. You need to understand why this could happen to your flower at all.
Reason number 1. It is likely that the sun was shining directly on the plant, and it just got burned.
For Spathiphyllum, partial shade is ideal. Light, of course, is needed in large quantities, but it should only be diffused, and the direct rays of the sun should not be at all. No need to put this plant on the windows of the south-west and even more so south. There, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, that is, they simply burn out. The leaves in this case can not only turn yellow, but even turn white. Often the sun is not only shining, but also very warm. It is in this case that the burn appears. With such a burn, the leaves turn yellow not completely, but in spots, or stripes. Those parts of the leaves that have been burned become thinner and look like parchment. Here the situation needs to be urgently changed.
What do we have to do? If the leaves are yellowed for this reason, then the flower is simply removed to another place that is more shaded. It can be windowsills north, east, and north-west or north-east. Sometimes it happens that all the windows in the apartment are well lit by the sun. There is a solution here too. In this case, the spathiphyllum is not placed directly on the windowsill, but away, that is, somewhere in the depths of the room itself. So you can reduce the intensity of illumination.
Reason number 2. Chlorosis or lack of trace elements. If your spathiphyllum lacks any trace elements, then its leaves may also turn yellow. When this happens it is uneven. So, there may well be a color of a “mosaic” character, when green spots remain on a general yellow background. Or it can be the same, only the opposite. Streaks may become colorless, or they remain green, but the leaves, that is, the plate itself will turn yellow. The latter color indicates iron chlorosis. Other options for uneven yellowing, this is a lack of various trace elements. It could be boron, calcium, or something else.
When the spathiphyllum turns yellow precisely because of starvation, it is easily treated. You just need to feed and enrich the soil. How to do it? You need to start with a transplant of a plant, while in the pot you will need to fill in a new, light and necessarily loose soil. As for the acidity of this soil, it should be slightly acidic. Next, the plant is sprayed using iron chelate (if it is iron chlorosis), or complex fertilizers are taken where there are necessary trace elements (that is, iron, calcium and boron again). It will take weeks 2 or 3 after such a forced transplant, and you need to go back to additional feeding. Here again, complex fertilizers should be used. Also important and watering at this time. They do it only with boiled water, slightly warm and necessarily already settled. We water 2 times a day.
Reason number 3. Spathiphyllum leaves age. Sometimes the leaves turn yellow only. They are already quite old, and this process is natural. Here you do not need to do anything. The leaves themselves die, and the plant replaces them with new ones. When the leaves turn yellow, it’s only a problem when they are young.
Leaves turn black
Or rather, in this case the tips turn black, and not the leaves themselves. They seem to dry up in this case.
Reason number 1. The air is very dry. At the same time the leaves do not dry much, per millimeter or two. The leaves themselves remain green, or in the zone that borders with this blackening, they only slightly yellow. This often happens in winter. It is at this time that the heating usually works at our full capacity.
Here, the decision suggests itself, you just need to increase the humidity next to the plant pot. This can be achieved by spraying a spathiphyllum with water (again, only warm and already settled). If you have an aquarium, then put the pot side by side. You can also put the pot on the pallet where the wet clay is poured. And the last option is to use a humidifier. Here is a self-made version of such a device, but it is written about how to choose it. Humidifier, in general, the most effective solution.
Reason number 2. Waterlogging, that is, the bay. Here the leaves will already turn black and dry will not. In this case, it’s not the tips that are blackening, but rather a large part of the sheet itself. The area of this blackening is usually separated from the green part of the leaf by a narrow yellow stripe.
If only the tips of the leaves at the spathiphyllum are blackened, then you pour too much water on it, but its roots are still whole, that is, you have not begun to rot. Here you just need to adjust the watering mode. Some people think of watering when the leaves have already wilted and look a bit preoccupied. This happens when the soil is almost completely dry in a pot. But such a drought for spathiphyllum is not terrible. Water it, it will literally take an hour and the leaves will recover again. But, often the plant should not be dried this way, that is, it is quite possible to do this sometimes, but not systematically. Soil with such a strong drying does not get better, and small roots significantly suffer and may well even die off. If you allowed such drying, then watering is necessary in this case for 1 / 3rd - 1 / 4th part of the pot.
Leaves dry at the edges. Dry black spots also appear in the center of the leaf.
Here, too, is not so simple, and the reason may not be one. This is mainly due to 3 reasons. Let's take them apart.
Reason number 1. This is still the same bay. The spots, however, are usually black or brown. This means that you poured a lot of water on it, and this has been going on for a long time. In this case, it is possible that the roots of the plant constantly sour in the water. Of course, they begin to rot, because of this, the leaves turn black.
To correct the situation, watering must be corrected. How to water, we have said. If, however, after adjusting for irrigation, the spots continue to appear on the leaves and become larger in size, be sure to inspect the roots. If there is rot on them, then it must be treated. To do this, first get the spathiphyllum from the pot. All the roots will need to rinse well, so that the old earth does not remain on them. Now you will see if there is rot on them. If there is, they will be yellowish or even already brown, and to the touch - soft. If the roots are white and dense enough, then they are completely healthy. As for rot, it is simply cut with a knife, and they do it to healthy tissue. Then all these cuts are powdered with coal (the easiest to be activated, pounded) or cinnamon. Let the roots dry after 2 or 3 hours of drying.
Next, we plant a spathiphyllum already in the new land, where all the same activated carbon is added. He will not allow cuts to rot again. After planting, immediately water the plant should not be. In the new land there is some amount of moisture that will allow the “amputated” roots of the plant to support vital activity. But it will take 2 or 3 days, the soil will dry out, and then you will need to water it. Again, we take water only warm and distilled, and even better boiled. It will need to add "Kornevin."
Watering and feeding
Among the reasons due to which the spathiphyllum does not bloom, the wrong irrigation regime stands out. Tropical exotics prefers an abundance of moisture during the growing season and moderate watering during the winter holidays. The water for the procedure is taken up separated, slightly warm (+ 20−22 ° C). Carefully watered under the leaves, trying not to fall into the middle of the trunk. Liquid from the pallet is removed. In the heat and heating season, next to the pot, containers with moisture are placed, and the leaves are sprayed twice a day.
Any flowering plant needs regular feeding. From spring to early autumn, the application is carried out 1 time in 2 weeks.
During the rest period, only one feeding per month is sufficient. Any complex preparations for flowering species will do, but the dosage must be reduced by half. Before the procedure, the soil is moistened, after which it can be fertilized.
Diseases and insectsIf exot blooms badly, diseases are often the culprits. Improper care, violation of temperature and irrigation regime provoke the occurrence of fungus. This is a very dangerous disease that develops rapidly and within two weeks kills the bush. To get rid of the disease will transplant in fresh soil and root disinfection system fungicide.
Interfere with bloom indoor plants and parasites. The spider mite appears in the heat with low humidity, and the plant louse and shieldweed easily migrate from neighboring flowers. Insects feed on intercellular sap in foliage, infecting the plant with fungal diseases. Due to the activity of the pests, the flower does not have the strength to throw out the buds. If the examination showed signs of the disease, the plant is treated with an insecticide.
Often an exotic flower is grown in comfort, but still does not try to open the petals. In this case, the professionals know how to make the spathiphyllum blossom at home. Stressful situation activates metabolic processes.that allows you to get an abundance of buds.
For 20 days the plant is placed in an unusual situation. Reduce watering to a minimum, and in the last week only leaves are moistened. The pot is transferred to the shade or away from the window. Reduce the temperature to +17 ° C, but do not allow the appearance of drafts. Upon expiration, the container is returned to the light window-sill, the flower is plentifully irrigated and fed. After that, the plant wakes up and starts flowering.
Spathiphyllum is a beautiful exotic look, which perfectly takes root in the apartment and office. Observing the minimum requirements of a tropical flower, it is possible to get an abundant ejection of buds within a few months. It is important to monitor the condition of the plant and prevent problems.