Soft rot The growth is slowed down, the leaves become pale green, often hang, the old leaves turn yellow. At the base of the stem cracks appear, of which stands yellowish-brown mucous rot.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants destroy. For grafting use only healthy queen cells. The knife after each cut is disinfected (for example, in the oven).
Bacterial spotting. On the leaves, most often on the edges, yellow rotting spots with an oily border appear.
Control and prevention measures: Plants are regularly inspected, and at the first signs of the disease they are treated with Cumulus, Euparen, Rovral, Fundazol and others.
Late blight. Some parts of the plant wither and dry. The rot spreads from the base of the stem to the leaves.
Control and prevention measures:Sick plants are destroyed; the rest are kept as dry as possible.
Anthracnose. Dark, moist spots of rot appear on the leaves, in the middle of which the fruiting bodies of the fungus develop.
Control and prevention measures:The diseased parts of the plant are removed and the air humidity is reduced. Landing large area treated with drugs Cumulus, Euparin, Fundazol to prevent the spread of the fungus.
Aphids. The leaves curl, turn yellow, with a strong lesion they are visible sticky discharge aphids.
Control and prevention measures: On single plants or when a lesion is weak, they are washed off with water and soapy water, with a strong lesion they are treated with Antitlin, Tobacco dust, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktara, Decis, Tanrek, Iskra, Bison, Biotlin, Komandor, etc.
Shchitovki and false shields. Whitish or golden-brown tubercles are visible on the surface of the stems. Usually insects can otkovyrnut needle.
Control and prevention measures: Remove pests from single plants and with a small lesion can be an old toothbrush, and then wipe the stems with a cotton swab dipped in kerosene. Insects gasp under a kerosene wrap. You can also try sprays to make the leaves gloss (oil-based). If there are many plants or they are severely affected, they are treated with an insecticide, such as mineral oil.
Cheesebone. White, waxy secretions appear in the leaf veins and petioles, in which colonies of worms live.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed. When spraying the foliage with mineral oil (M-30, M-50), the insects choke under the oil film. This treatment is carried out with protection from the sun and not too often.
Spider mite Yellowish specks appear on the leaves, later - extensive bleached and dried areas. Small (0.2-0.5 mm) mites live on the underside of the leaves among the cobwebs. The appearance of ticks contributes to high temperature and dry air.
Control and prevention measures: In the case of light damage, plants can be treated with soap or mineral oil. With a strong treatment with drugs Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Lightning, etc.
Thrips. Leaf areas become uneven yellowish-white in color. Dark discharge, especially on the underside of the leaves, indicates the presence of thrips. These small, oblong, yellowish or brown insects usually sit on the underside of the leaves. High temperature and humid air contribute to their appearance. With a strong lesion leaves dry and fall.
Control and prevention measures: To protect the mass landings hang sticky blue traps. For the complete destruction of thrips, early and repeated use of insecticides is necessary. They are sprayed with Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Tanrek, Iskra and others. After 4-5 days, the treatment is repeated, because insecticides do not affect all stages of development of these insects.
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Dieffenbachia Diseases: General Information
Quite often, lovers of indoor flowers notice how the leaves of a tropical beauty turn yellow. The first thing that comes to mind is the wrong care. But this happens even in the most dedicated florist. Dieffenbachia diseases occur for various reasons, the main thing is to start treatment in time.
Another problem of the plant is the drying and dropping of the lower leaf plates. Since they are the main decoration of the flower, it is not very pleasant to observe their loss. In some cases, the reason is the natural process of plant development, which can not stop even the most competent florist. But if young plates fall off, it is worth thinking about a possible disease of dieffenbachia and methods of timely treatment.
A rather unpleasant sight when a beloved flower drops down its once lush leaves and acquires a pitiful look. Dieffenbachia fades for various reasons, but this appearance is a signal to action. In addition, brown spots, droplets of unknown origin, or even non-opening leaves may appear on the plant. Let us consider in detail the possible causes and methods for treating diseases of Dieffenbachia.
If small children live in the house, you can have an exotic flower in the office. Such a cute "neighbor" will decorate the room with lush greenery and will always be a reason for joy.
Brown spots on leaves: causes and methods of struggle
In one wise book, the simple truth is written that all living things suffer from diseases. The truth of these words we observe every day. Unfortunately, plants also get sick and tropical beauty is no exception. Studies show that it is prone to fungal, viral, and bacterial diseases. One of them manifests itself when brown spots are formed on the leaves of defibachia, around which there is an orange rim. Over time, they spread to the whole leaf, as a result of which he dies.
The main causes of the disease are caused by such factors:
- high temperature in the room
- humidity drops
- excessive watering plants.
If the rules of care are observed and the listed points are not observed, it means that the plant is affected by a serious disease:
With such problems, brown spots appear on the leaves, framed by a dark line. The fungicide solution, which should be sprayed on an infected plant, will help get rid of the disease.
In order for dieffenbachia to get enough moisture from the air, it must be “settled” away from direct sunlight, and during the cold season, from central heating.
The best option for growing dieffenbachia - the eastern side of the apartment or house. Away from the sun that burns its tender leaves.
Leaf plates do not open: a wise solution
For several decades, dieffenbachia has gained particular popularity. It can be found in the corridors of clinics and hospitals, offices, schools and even train stations. The main reason - simple care, consisting in such events:
- regular soil moistening
- spraying sheet plates
- growing plants away from drafts,
- room temperature control,
- the right choice of habitat (away from the direct rays of the sun).
Despite this, the plant can get sick. Sometimes it happens that the leaves of the dieffenbachia do not open, as a result of which its beauty is lost. Often the reason lies in these factors:
- it gets direct sunlight
- drafts that lead to rapid temperature changes
- root rot due to excessive moisture
- low humidity in the room
- lack of useful items.
It should not be excluded, and the defeat of plants by pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, aphids or scutes. If the "enemies" are found, the flower should be treated with soapy water. If it does not help, apply insecticides.
Dieffenbachia "cries" and does not grow
Often, if the plant is not sick, it is characterized by lush greenery, vigorous growth and bright color plates. But as soon as lethargy appears, the color changes and the dieffenbachia does not grow, it is time to sound the alarm. Perhaps the cause was pests or viral diseases that insects carry. As a result, yellow or brown spots are formed on the leaf plates, which adversely affect the growth of the flower. To cope with the disease is not easy, so the best way out is to start a new plant, and say goodbye to it.
Sometimes the following factors influence the growth of dieffenbachia:
- lack of light
- "Drought" on the soil,
- need for feeding.
Careful attention to the flower and simple actions will help solve the problems:
- moving to another location of the room,
- regular moistening of topsoil
- the use of special fertilizers for dieffenbachia.
Unfortunately, each of us is prone to extremes. Therefore, excessive watering can lead to rotting of the roots and the appearance of drops on Dieffenbachia. Interestingly, in such an extraordinary way, the flower compensates for excess moisture. Such droplets on the leaves are found in the period of heavy rain. So the plant protects itself from excess fluid.
Another reason for the appearance of wateriness on the leaf plates is bacteriosis. At first, small droplets of moisture may not cause concern, but if they are outlined by a visible border, it is time to sound the alarm. Subsequently, the foliage becomes brown and dies. Such a plant is best destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease to other indoor flowers.
Caution - Dieffenbachia!
Despite its attractiveness, sweet tropical beauty refers to poisonous plants. The juice secreted by the plant causes slight damage to the skin. But if he gets on the mucous tissue of the mouth or eyes, a burn occurs. In rare cases, a complete intoxication of the organism can occur, which manifests itself as follows:
- swelling of oral tissues and lips,
- copious saliva
- fast breathing
- temperature rise,
First aid for burns dieffenbachia, and treatment consists of simple actions. First you need to rinse the affected skin with running water. With pain sensations, a lidocaine solution is applied to the burn. If the juice gets on the eyeball, then the affected eye is washed with running water for about 20 minutes. Then use drops "Levomitsetin" or furatsilin solution to prevent infection.
Burns obtained from dieffenbachia juice in the oral cavity are removed due to the rinsing procedure. Clearly expressed pain can be quenched with novocaine solution (0.5%). After these actions, it is recommended to drink a glass of cold milk or water. In any case, when a problem occurs, it is important not to waste time, but to act.
Dieselfenbachia leaf spot.
Spotting leaves Dieffenbachia fungus causes Phaeosphaeria eustoma (Fuckel) L. Holm.
Signs of the disease. The most severely damaged lower old leaves are damaged, especially along the margin. On the leaf blades of plants, round spots of small size appear, expanding as the disease progresses. The spots have a center of brown color and an orange border.
The pathogen is stored on the remnants of infected plants, transmitted by water.
Stronger damage to plants that are at high humidity and elevated temperatures.
Control measures. Maintain optimal moisture conditions and temperature content. If signs of disease appear, treatment with systemic fungicides is performed.
Fusarium in Dieffenbachia caused by a fungus Fusarium solani (Mart.) Sacc.
Signs of the disease. On the root neck and on the roots of the plant, elongated spots of dark shades appear. As a result of damage to the stems, yellowing and wilting of the plants occurs. In the case of high humidity of the substrate and air, the damaged areas are covered with light pink fungal mycelium.
The pathogen is able to persist in the soil for a long time, and it is very resistant to external influences.
The disease spreads with contaminated soil, as well as when the roots of a diseased and healthy plant come into contact. Particularly susceptible to plants that have a lack of potassium in the substrate, as well as over-dried.
Control measures. The use of quality substrates. When cutting, only healthy material is used, it is recommended to immerse the cuttings in the solution of the fungicide for about 15 minutes for disinfection. As a preventive measure, biological fungicides are sprayed, for example, Trichodermine (Glyocladin). If a disease is detected, plants are treated with systemic fungicides, for example, such as Rovral, Fundazol.
Dieffenbachia anthracnose causes fungus Colletotrichum gloeosporioides (Penz.) Penz. and Sacc.
Signs of the disease. Quite large spots appear on the leaves along the edge of the leaf blade. According to the development of the disease, the leaf dries out because the spots spread to the entire surface of the leaf.
The pathogen persists in infected plant debris.
Especially strongly affected are plants that are kept at a high temperature, high humidity. The disease also contributes to the overmoistening of the substrate.
Control measures. Contents with the peculiarities of growing plants. When signs of disease appear, treatment with systemic fungicides is carried out, for example, such as Vitaros, Fundazol.
Dieffenbachia root decay.
The causative agents of root rot Dieffenbachia are species of fungi from genera Pythium and Phytophthora.
Signs of the disease. Wilting plants, followed by his death. Indented dark areas appear on the root neck and on the roots of the plants, they cover the entire tissue as the disease progresses, and in this place the plant rots, breaks and falls. On the spots the fungal mycelium develops in light gray color.
The pathogen is preserved in the soil, from where the plants are infected.
Excess fertilizer in the substrate, lack of lighting, poor ventilation, excessive watering, too moisture-absorbing substrates, high temperatures of the content - all these factors lead to the fact that the plant is more susceptible to damage by the pathogen. The difference in the temperature of the substrate and air in excess of 6-8 ° C, also contributes to the development of rot.
Control measures. The use of high-quality well-aerated neutral substrates, proper agrotechnology, fertilizing fertilizers with a high content of potassium. In the event of signs of disease, watering is stopped, the substrate is partially changed to a new, dry, and treatment with systemic fungicides, for example, such as Profit Gold, Ridomil Gold, Previkur, is carried out.
Bacteriosis of dieffenbachia.
Bacteriosis in Dieffenbachia causes species of bacteria Erwinia carotovora subsp. carotovora (Jones) Bergey et al and Erwinia chrisantemi Barras et al.
Signs of the disease. On the stems of the plant, both above and below the soil, watery spots appear with a sharply defined edge. After the spots become brown or gray. Leaves also appear watery spots, acquiring a light brown color, and having a yellow border.
The pathogen is preserved in the remnants of infected plants until their complete decomposition, is transmitted with cuttings, with mechanical damage. The pathogen develops particularly actively in conditions of high humidity and temperature, with an excess of nutrients in the soil. Oppressed plants are more damaged by this disease.
Control measures. Compliance with agricultural practices, the destruction of diseased plants, the use of clean tools for cutting plants.
The causative agent of viral bronze in dieffenbachia is Tomato spotted wilt virus.
Signs of the disease. The plant, on its leaves appear concentric circles, annular spots, yellowish arcs. As the disease progresses, the leaves wither, burn symptoms appear, and unilateral necrosis of the leaves from the infected side of the stem is possible for the stems. Leaves remain hanging on the plant. The plant slows down growth processes.
The pathogen is tolerated by pests. Especially different species from the genus thrips.
Control measures. Timely treatment with insecticides.
Viral mosaic in Dieffenbachia causes Dasheen mosaic virus.
Signs of the disease. Growth processes of the plant slow down, mosaic blotch appears on the leaves.
The pathogen is stored in infected plants and is transmitted by insect pests, mainly aphids, also with cuttings from diseased plants.
Control measures. Use for reproduction of healthy plants, timely spraying of plants with insecticidal preparations.
In our article about dieffenbachia you can get acquainted with its cultivation, various species.
If you have any problems with your dieffenbachia, and you cannot independently determine what is wrong with it, you can always contact us for help. flower forum.
The article was prepared: Marina and Alexander Mityaev
How to care for dieffenbachia at home
Adding greenery to your interior is considered good form.
In addition to the fact that green plants are the subject of the interior, they still benefit their owners. Improve the microclimate in the room and clean the atmosphere can such a plant as dieffenbachia. Home care for a flower is required with some special features.
Виды и сорта диффенбахии
Цветоводами изучено более 50 видов растения. Under the pot plant is adapted much smaller types of flowers. Long term nurture Dieffenbachy spawned flower growers to create new species by crossing and selection. A common feature of this type of plant is broad bright leaves. Houseplants usually do not exceed a height of more than 2 meters. Group the plants according to the brightness of the color and the various leaves.
It is necessary to care for each plant, but Dieffenbachia has its own preferences in this matter.
The safest thing to do is to reproduce the flower in the spring-summer period, at which time the leaves on the plant wither and fall. For rooting using apical stalk with foliage. Put it in the wet sand. Cover the stalk from above, thus creating a mini greenhouse for it.
One more breeding method is noted - a bare trunk is incised under the place of leaf growth. The cuts are processed with a special tool for grafting and fix it so that it does not close. The cuts are covered with wet moss and wrapped in plastic. Quickly wait for new shoots are not worth it. They may appear not earlier than 2-3 months. Sprouted shoots are cut below the root system and transplanted into small pots. To speed up the rooting process will allow the construction of greenhouses.
A pot change takes place every three years. Fresh soil at the same time, combined with charcoal. After transplanting the plant must be regularly fed. From spring to the end of summer, new leaves form on the trunk. If a lot of old leaves have fallen, the flower is transplanted into fresh ground. After some time, the bare stem is cut, retaining only a stump of 10 cm.
Good appearance conditions
Caring for dieffenbachia is not difficult, if you follow the basic preferences of the plant. It is recommended to grow a flower in good light, but without contact with bright sunlight. To avoid burns, you must create a shadow. Dieffenbachia Camilla is particularly fastidious about keeping the temperature regime; the ideal temperature for her is +22 degrees at any time of the year. Other types of plants are able to withstand temperatures up to 30 degrees, but with the provision of high humidity.
Feeling unwell Diffenbachia: how to help cope with them.
In winter, the temperature will be comfortable 18 degrees. Dieffenbachia can not withstand temperature extremes and drafts. Many of its species require frequent watering during the period of active growth. Even in winter, regular and abundant watering is necessary, but it is impossible to prevent stagnation of water.
It is important to moisten the plant, it will relieve it of accumulated dust and cool it if the temperature in the room rises.
Fertilize potting Dieffenbachia need regularly. The most successful will be the use of a weak solution of mineral fertilizer. In spring and summer, fertilizing is carried out three times a month. In winter and autumn, a single top dressing per month is enough. The plant responds well to fertilizing with organic or complex fertilizers.
It is worth looking for the reason in the following:
- dry air in the room. Not enough moisture. It is necessary to keep the diefenbachia pot away from the batteries and spray more often.
- the sun's rays burn the leaves - the most favorable will be the location of the pot in the east or southeast,
- flooded soil - the root system may rot from large amounts of water and the plant will die. When rotting, the flower is transplanted, while the root system is cleaned and the dead segments of the root are removed.
- cold - dieffenbachia comes from the tropics, it needs a temperature in the room not lower than 22 degrees,
- drafts - you can not place the plant near the balcony and under the vents.
Diffenbachia dries, leaves wither and fall
- fungus - you can infect a plant with it by pouring it with running water, first the leaves are covered with dry brown spots, and then they become sluggish and lifeless. For irrigation it is worth using only separated water.
- draft, cold often bring the leaves to dry and fall off. The main thing to comply with comfortable conditions
- the flower quickly fades, the leaves alternately dry and fall off. It's time to upgrade the plant, it can be done by cutting,
- pest infestation.
- Fusarium disease. The reason lies in the contaminated land. The parasites colonize the root, and as a result the whole plant is covered with brown oblong spots, the flower fades. When planting, you need to use only a special soil and not to overdry it. The diseased flower is transplanted, the root is cleaned and treated with a fungicide,
- decaying root - the plant fades quickly. It is necessary to change the pot and root treatment with a fungicide, reduce watering,
- waterlogging in cold - it is necessary to guarantee a comfortable temperature and reduce watering.
- Bronze and viral mosaic - vectors insects, when the leaves are covered with yellow spots - this is a bronze, if the mosaic of stains is a viral mosaic. With these diseases, the flower dies, it can not be cured,
- dark place - you need to provide a brighter place of existence,
- the drying out of the soil - the earthen room periodically needs to be moistened,
- little fertilized soil - the plant stops growing. It is important to remember to use fertilizer regularly.
Pests. Methods of struggle
The most famous are: spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, scales. The way to get rid of them: the whole plant is washed with soapy water and washed off with warm water. Then the plant is treated with insecticide.
- scytivka - a small beetle, with a hard wax body, lives under the leaf, gradually destroying it,
- the mealybug leaves a discharge similar to shreds of down, the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off, the flower dies,
- spider mite, leaves a raid on the trunk, leaves wither,
- Aphid lives on the inner side of the leaves, feeds on intercellular fluid, the plant weakens and can infect other flowers that are next to it,
- thrips - beetles that drink the juice from the plant, while the leaves curl and dry.
Video (care, transplanting, reproduction)
How to grow dieffenbachia. How to propagate dieffenbachia? How to transplant dieffenbachia?
Family: Aroids (Agaseae).
The number of types of Dieffenbachia: about 30.
Homeland dieffenbachia: Tropics of Central and South America.
Description of dieffenbachia
This tree plant with a single trunk can reach up to 2 m in height, however, while the lower part of the trunk becomes bare. Therefore, once every 3-4 years, the dieffenbachia is updated.
The leaves are large, 50 cm long, elongate-oval, with a pointed apex, the color is motley - white, yellowish or pale green spots and strokes on a bright green background. Dieffenbachia blooms in spring and summer with small nondescript greenish-white flowers.
Necessary conditions for growing dieffenbachia
The plant is very thermophilic.
In spring and summer, the optimum temperature for it is 20-25 ° C.
In winter, it is also better to keep it at this temperature, but it is acceptable to lower it to 18 ° C. If the temperature drops below 10 ° C - the plant will die.
Dieffenbachia does not tolerate drafts and sharp fluctuations in temperature; therefore, it should not be located close to heating devices switched on periodically.
The plant is light-requiring, it needs a bright diffused light, since the lack of lighting will lead to the loss of decorative color and chopping leaves.
Why do leaves dieffenbachia?
However, from direct sunlight, defenbachia should also be protected. It is best to grow it on the eastern and western windows.
In spring and summer, regular abundant watering is necessary, the soil should be constantly slightly wet. In winter, watering is reduced to moderate. The plant is not recommended to be watered with hard water, as this will lead to browning of the tips of the leaves.
From May to August, 2-3 times a month, regular feeding with complex liquid fertilizer for houseplants is necessary, since a lack of nutrients leads to an accelerated exposure of the lower part of the trunk. In winter, feeding is stopped.
Dieffenbachia is demanding of high humidity, it needs regular spraying throughout the year. Before spraying you need to make sure that there is no draft in the room, otherwise this procedure will affect the plant negatively. If in winter dieffenbachia is kept at a temperature of less than 20 ° C, the spraying should be replaced by wiping with a damp sponge.
The life of the plant in room conditions is about 3 years, after this time it loses its decorative effect. During this period, dieffenbachia is transplanted annually in spring. The recommended substrate is a mixture of leaf earth, peat, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1.
After the plant is extended, and the trunk is exposed, the dieffenbachia is renewed - the upper part with leaves is cut off. It is easily rooted, after which it is planted in a separate pot. The remaining stem can be used for breeding.
Dieffenbachia easily propagated by pieces of the trunk, which are cut to a length of 6-8 cm and rooted in the peat-sand mixture. For rapid rooting, soil heating to 30 ° C is desirable.
In some species of plants, pristvolnye daughter shoots are formed, which are separated from the parent plant, rooted in the same way as the trunk segments and planted in pots.
Dieffenbachia juice is poisonous and causes severe irritation of the mucous membranes and skin, so you can work with it only with gloves.
Tags: how to grow dieffenbachia, dieffenbachia, growing dieffenbachia
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Dieffenbachia - light-loving plants, but require mandatory shading from direct sunlight. IN VERY DARK PLACE LEAVES PLINCE AND BECOME ATTRACTIVE
What it does not tolerate yet is the drying up of an earthy coma. Thus, regular watering is required, as well as washing the leaves with water from the sprayer. For irrigation and spraying it is necessary to use only well-defended tap water at room temperature. It requires frequent spraying and regular washing of the leaves.
Connoisseurs arrange a period of rest from September to March for dieffenbachia, so that, due to insufficient illumination, small, hardly viable leaves do not develop in winter. During the rest period, watering is reduced, and fertilizing is not done at all. From time to time the leaves are sprayed with water.
At least once every 3 to 4 years, the dieffenbachia is transplanted into not very large pots and ordinary soil for houseplants, in which you need to add a little charcoal. Regular weekly fertilizing with fertilizers from April to August - but only during this period - stimulates the formation of new leaves and improves the general condition of the plants. If the plants become too large with an unattractive bare stem, they can be cut off, leaving a stump about 10 cm high, from which new shoots will begin to grow.
Dieffenbachia propagated by apical and stem cuttings at high temperatures. Dieffenbachia also bloom in the rooms, although this greatly retards plant growth. The inflorescence is usually broken off, otherwise the growth of leaves will stop for a while and the plant will become bare from the bottom. Over the years or with poor care, the lower part of the stem also becomes bare.
The base of the stem is soft and loses color - rotting of the stem. Over-wetting of the soil and lower air temperature contribute to the disease. At the beginning of the disease, you can cut the affected area, wipe the wound with crushed charcoal and transplant the plant into fresh soil. If the defeat of dieffenbachia is extensive, the apical part of the stem can be rooted and the rest of the plant discarded.
Lower leaves turn yellow and curl up - low temperatures in winter or cold drafts.
Dieffenbachia - how to care for a plant
The plant will be able to survive the temperature of 10 - 12 C, but the lower leaves will inevitably suffer.
Loss of color - too bright light or contact with leaves of direct sunlight causes their discoloration.
Move the plant to a less illuminated place.
Dying off of leaves is the most likely cause of dying off of young leaves - too low temperature, dry air or cold drafts. Old leaves always die with age.
The brown edges of the leaves - the drying of the soil. It should always be wet, but not waterlogged. Another reason could be cold air.
I, too, so well (
I'm just waiting for the increase, already increasing)
And care for her is simple)
Dieffenbachia Dieffenbachia with its gorgeous strong leaves of various sizes and colors can not leave indifferent more than one amateur grower. Depending on the type, dieffenbachia can have one or more trunks. It grows very quickly.
Help save Dieffenbachia !!
Some varieties can reach a height of two meters. Requires constant painstaking care.
Region of origin: the tropics of South and Central America.
Growth: rapid, especially in spring and summer. During the rest period, in autumn and winter, Dieffenbachia can continue to grow.
Place of keeping: the plant is shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Better if the tub with dieffenbachia put in a meter - and a half from the window. Some varieties, such as dieffenbachia charming, can grow in partial shade. Determining whether your plant will feel good in the depths of the room is easy - the smaller the variety of white spots on the leaves, the shade-tolerant it is. If you put a spotted plant in the shade, then over time it will lose its properties and the leaves will acquire a dark green color. In addition, when kept in the shade, leaves may shrink. Dieffenbachia can not stand the draft! It can lead to rapid loss of leaves.
Temperature: the plant must be kept warm. The lower temperature threshold is 16 degrees. At temperatures above 25 degrees, leaf tips can dry.
Humidity: As with most tropical plants, the humidity should be high. To do this, the plant is sprayed every day. You can not do this only if the apartment is cold. Dieffenbachia loves “bathing” under a warm shower. To do this, place the plant in the bath, wrap the pot with plastic wrap so that water does not fall on the ground and rinse the leaves and stem well with water. In addition to a simple hygienic procedure, you will thus protect your plant from the possible appearance of diseases and pests. If the flower has impressive size, just wipe the leaves and (necessarily) the trunk with a damp cloth from time to time.
Watering: in spring and summer, dieffenbachia is watered immediately after the topsoil dries out; watering is moderate during the rest period in autumn and winter, that is, after the topsoil has dried out, a couple more days should pass. Plant can not be poured.
Top dressing: in the period of growth from spring to autumn, they are fed with mineral and organic fertilizers 2-3 times a month. If you don’t feed dieffenbachia, it will drop the leaves faster. When applying fertilizer with a high nitrogen content, the leaves become dark green in color, losing their variegation.
Blossoming: blooms not for long in April-May in the form of a yellowish cob. Flowering dieffenbachia does not cause any interest, so in order not to weaken the plant, it is better to remove the inflorescence. If you want to see what a flower looks like, delete it immediately after the end of flowering.
Caution! All parts of the plant are poisonous! Wear gloves. Wash your hands immediately after touching the plant.
Pruning: Dieffenbachia is pruned for rooting only. Thus, it is rejuvenated. If you don’t do this from time to time, you will have a bare stem in the tub with a crown of leaves at the top.
Rest period: autumn-winter, but even during this period the plant can continue to grow. Contain at room temperature, light supplement is desirable.
Soil: dieffenbachia grows well in loose subacid substrate. It can be made up of two parts of leafy ground, two parts of turf and one part of peat, crushed sphagnum moss and sand.
Transplantation: as the dieffenbachia grows, it is transplanted, and it is better transferred into the pot a little larger than the previous one. During transshipment, drainage should be replaced, the lower and upper layers of the soil. The transplant calmly transfers the plant at any time of active growth (spring-summer).
Reproduction: usually do when the plant loses its decorative effect. It is necessary to cut the apical part with leaves. The cut should be 2 cm below the outermost node. After this, it is necessary to wash the slice from the milky juice in warm water and to powder it with pounded charcoal or root. Root can be in the soil substrate and in the water, where it is desirable to add activated carbon. The roots will appear in about two weeks. Rooting is almost one hundred percent, provided that the sprout is kept in a warm place with constant spraying.
The remaining bare trunk can be left in the tub, sprinkling it moderately. After some time, a new sprout will appear from the top node. It is pruned and rooted in the soil mixture. Thus you can get a few new young Dieffenbachy.
При размножении стеблевыми черенками ствол растения нарезают по 2-3 междоузлия, смывают сок теплой водой и подсушивают 1-2 дня. Выкладывают горизонтально в субстрат из торфа и песка, присыпают и содержат в постоянно увлажненном состоянии. После появления корешков высаживают в приготовленную почвосмесь для диффенбахий.
The stem of a plant that is cut and rooted to the maximum can be left in the ground, watered and fertilized as usual and get another plant from the apical bud on the trunk.
Possible problems with growing:
- leaves shrink: move the plant to a brighter place, but not under direct sunlight,
- leaves turn yellow: overflow is possible;
- the plant loses its leaves too quickly: irregular watering, too tight a pot,
- leaf tips dry: dry air, draft, waterlogging of the soil (maybe in case of poor drainage in a pot, this leads to stagnation of water), too high or low temperature of keeping, direct sunlight,
- rotting stem: waterlogging plants, low air temperature. It usually starts from the bottom of the stem, so the best way is to trim the top of the plant and root it.
Then you can root healthy parts of the stem, cut them into three buds and horizontally dig into the soil,
- folded lower leaves: draft, low temperature,
- the edges of the leaves turn brown: the plant is cold, the soil dries out, hard water,
- leaves lose spotting: direct sunlight,
- leaves turn a pale hue: direct sunlight.
Ways to combat spider miteIf you saw that dieffenbachia was covered with cobwebs - this is the first symptom of a spider mite. The size of the tick varies from 0.3 to 0.5 mm, the females are purple-red, the males are bright red.
A favorable environment for its habitat are dry warm rooms, which is why it is dangerous all year round, located on the back of the sheet. Dieffenbachia leaves infected with spider mites turn yellow and dry.
These pests are insidious by the fact that when unfavorable conditions for their reproduction occur, the female can dig into the ground and fall into a state of rest, before the onset of conditions suitable for life processes.
One female tick lays up to 150 eggs at a time. As soon as you notice that the dieffenbachia on the web immediately begin to act, because over the summer one female can lay 8-10 generations of eggs.
If the flower is not strongly affected, you can wash its shoots and leaves with a solution of soapy water or water tincture of garlic. In case of intensive damage, use insecticides, or colloidal sulfur.
What are dangerous shchitovki and pseudo shield on the plant?The first symptom of infection of the flower with the shield is the appearance of yellow dots on the trunk and leaves, which increase in size over time. Then the leaves turn yellow, spinning and falling.
The resettlement of shintovok and pseudo shield occurs by air flow. When attached to a leaf or a stem, they look like scales or growths, as a result of which the plants slow down their growth, its leaves fall off and the flower disappears.
The fake guards, unlike the flaps, do not have a dense shell, so insecticides act on them faster.
To destroy this type of pest we need:
- brush or soft sponge,
- a solution of soapy water, water tincture of garlic, or an insecticide solution.
How to deal with aphids on dieffenbachiaEspecially great harm to flowers does aphid. Insect sizes reach two mm, females do not have wings, males do. Color pests can be very diverse: from light green to yellow, red or even pink.
Settling large colonies on young leaves or sprouts, they suck the juice from the flowers, causing them to deform and suffer viral diseases.
Signs that diefenbachia aphid attacked is the loss of plant original color, twisting and shedding the leaves, as well as the presence of a sticky layer.
If the flower is strongly amazed, it is better to cut the leaves and shoots. If necessary, repeat the treatment after 7-10 days.
Curling and drying leaves, how to protect dieffenbachia from thripsOne of the many dangerous for diphenbachia pests are thrips, because their reproduction is not affected by temperature fluctuations.
The body of thrips is narrow with two pairs of wings, 1.5 mm long. The color is thrips black or brown, the larvae are yellow.
Diffenbachia affected by thrips, discolored and covered with gray spots. Soon the leaves turn brown and peel off.
The main damage to these sucking pests (both adults and larvae) inflict peduncles, which are covered with divorce and distorted.
In addition, the plant is covered with a sticky black substance, on which soot fungus can appear. To control this type of insect, use of flycatchers and insecticide spraying will be effective.
Mealworms control measuresAnother pest Dieffenbachia is a mealybug. The oval body of an adult individual reaches three to four millimeters and is distinguished by a pink or orange color, with a characteristic white patina (sacs with eggs).
Mealybugs gather in colonies on the underside of leaves or on the tips of young shoots, drinking juice from a flower. They lay their offspring in clumps of white cobwebs, and the flower, struck by them, becomes like artificial snow made of cotton wool.
The Cherry bug depletes the plant: shoot growth is slowed down, the leaves turn yellow and showered. A black fungus can appear on the mucus produced by the parasites.
When fighting this pest, its eggs are removed from the flower with a cotton swab or a damp sponge. Then the infected place is washed with a sponge dipped in soapy water or alcohol diluted with water or vodka. If the flower is very affected by worms, it is better to resort to etching with systemic insecticides.
Large plants with strong stems. Depending on the variety, the size and color of the leaves vary. There are types with monophonic and motley leaves. Some species thrive. Side shoots grow both from the base and at the top of the stem.
The leaves are large, elongated oval. The leaves are alternately arranged on the stem. Dieffenbachia is growing rapidly. In favorable conditions, a new young sheet appears every week. The sizes depend on a grade and leaving. There are medium and tall varieties. Srednerosly grow up to a meter, tall - up to two.
In total there are more than 50 types of dieffenbachia. Among them are natural varieties and varieties, artificially bred by breeders.
- Dieffenbachia Baragudina. The variety is interesting unusual color. The leaves are dark with single white spots of different shapes. Scapes and main vein of leaves are white.
- Dieffenbachia Leopold. The leaves are elliptical, broad, dark-colored, sit on a short stalk. On pale stalks purple spots. Middle veins of leaves are white.
- Dieffenbachia spotted. Stems tall - up to a meter. The leaves are large, attached to the stem with long petioles. Form - lanceolate or oblong-elongated, pointed at the top. On a green background, bright spots stand out clearly.
- Dieffenbachia Seguin. It looks like a variegated dieffenbachia. The difference - the leaves are wider, less spots, lateral veins less.
- Dieffenbachia is charming. Unpretentious variety - resistant to shading and dry air. Tall species - the height of the stem reaches one and a half meters, the leaves in length up to half a meter. The leaves are dark with white stripes.
Maintenance of dieffenbachia and the creation of the "right" microclimate
This is a tropical plant, so cultivation of dieffenbachia in the home requires the creation of a favorable microclimate. Without constant care, the plant loses its decorativeness.
- Lighting For variegated varieties (with variegated leaves) you need an abundance of diffused light. Direct sun is completely excluded. In low light, the color characteristic of the variety is lost, the decorative effect is reduced. Varieties with dark monophonic leaves endure light partial shade. Allowed their placement in the corner of the room under the condition of full artificial lighting.
- Temperature . Dieffenbachia need a constant temperature. It does not tolerate temperature fluctuations. In the summer, it is maintained at a level from 21 ° C to 25 ° C. In winter, slightly lower - from 18 ° C to 20 ° C.
- Watering It is recommended to water dieffenbachia with warm softened water two days after the surface of the soil dries out. In the warm season, water is plentiful, but not brought to the over-wetting of the soil.
- Humidity Spraying is good. If the air is dry, dieffenbachia is sprayed daily. Young plants periodically bathe under a warm shower, adults wipe them with a damp soft cloth.
- Top dressing. In the warm period, fertilizing is made three times a month. Complexes are used for deciduous crops, the dosage is halved. Periodically make a small amount of lime. Organic organisms are rarely fed, in moderate quantities - an excess of organic substances leads to a smoothing of the characteristic color.
- Transplant If the root system ceases to fit in the pot, you need to transplant dieffenbachia. The optimal time for a transplant is spring. Young plants sometimes have to be transplanted twice a year. The root system is better not to disturb. Dieffenbachia transplanted by transfer to a new larger pot.
- The soil . Use permeable and permeable soils with weak acidity. The soil mixture consists of peat, sand, hardwood, sod. Universal soils improve the addition of sand, perlite, crushed charcoal. An important condition for the full development - quality drainage.
- Crop. Dieffenbachia requires periodic rejuvenation - as it grows, the lower part of the stem becomes bare. The top is cut to the bare stem, washed from the milky juice and rooted.
Description. For reproduction of dieffenbachia cuttings use the apical and stem parts. It is easiest to root them in an improvised greenhouse with a heated bottom.
- After cutting off the apex to rejuvenate the dieffenbachia, the stump remaining in the pot continues to be watered.
- With timely watering and dressing, he will give side shoots, which can also be used for rooting.
- Cuttings rooted in water, sand, sand and peat mixture, sphagnum.
- The main conditions for successful rooting are moderate temperatures of 21–24 ° C, bright diffused light, and regular spraying.
Description. In practice, air layouts are rarely used. In this case, you can damage the parent plant and not get the result.
- Small cuts are made on the stem, they are covered with moist sphagnum and wrapped with opaque polyethylene.
- After the appearance of the roots, the stem with the film is cut.
- After cutting, the film is removed, the layers with moss are planted in a light substrate.
Diffenbachia diseases and their treatment
How to help a tropical beauty?
- Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, reasons, what to do? Solution to the problem:
- low air humidity. Diffenbachia, not getting enough moisture from the air, also starts to turn yellow, so in winter it should be kept away from central heating batteries or buy an air humidifier,
- direct sunlight, there should be enough light
It is necessary to check whether the roots of the flower started to rot. To do this, remove the plant from the pot, examine the root system, remove the rot and affected root areas, transplant the flower into another smaller container, observing the rules of planting (drainage 1/3 of the pot, 2/3 soil mixed with sand and peat)
- fungal lesions (atraknoz, leaf spot), spores of the fungus (leaf spot) can get a plant with irrigation water, dry brown spots appear on the edges of the leaves, gradually spreading over the entire surface of the leaf, it becomes sluggish, lifeless.
Atraknoz is provoked by excessively high temperature in the room, dry air, in some cases, over-wetted soil (excessive watering), to get rid of this trouble, it is enough to normalize the temperature and watering regime;
- drafts, low air temperature can also lead to drying and falling leaves; to eliminate the problem of Dieffenbachia, you need to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room,
- the plant is aging, the lower leaves dry, fall off, this is a natural process. It is necessary to rejuvenate it by cutting. For this, the bare trunk of Dieffenbachia needs to be cut into cuttings, leaving only a small part of the stem in the pot, which will soon give a new shoot and Dieffenbachia will continue to grow,
To combat fusarium, the flower must be transplanted into another pot, after removing the rot from the roots and treating the affected areas with a fungicide,
- root rot that appears when the soil is overly fertilized and wet. Rot first affects the root system, then gradually affects the trunk, the flower fades and dies. It is necessary to transplant Dieffenbachia, having previously treated the roots with a fungicide and limit watering,
- waterlogging in combination with low air temperature, in this case it is necessary to provide the plant with a comfortable temperature, limit watering.
- watering with cold water, it is desirable to defend water for watering for at least 24 hours,
- drafts and low room temperature
- pest attack.
- viral lesions (bronze and viral mosaic), usually carried by insects, yellow round spots (bronze) or a mosaic of spots (viral mosaic) appear on the leaves of the plant, Dieffenbachia fades, stops developing. To cope with this problem is almost impossible, the flower must be destroyed,
- there is not enough light. It is necessary to move the flower to a brighter room, but remember that the flower does not tolerate direct sunlight,
- insufficient watering. The potted soil should always be a little wet,
- lack of fertilizer in the soil. The lack of fertilizers as well as their surplus negatively affects the growth and development of Dieffenbachia, it is necessary to use the fertilizer strictly according to the instructions on the package,
- excess watering. The flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil, a similar phenomenon can be observed before the rain, the plant opens channels to release moisture, preparing for an excess of water.
In the photo below you will see the symptoms of the disease in Dieffenbachia:
Here is all the information about the most common diseases and problems Dieffenbachia. Of course, it is possible that nothing of the above with your plant may not happen, but: “forewarned, forearmed”, take this article into service and then you can save your darling Dieffenbachia in any situation.