Alternating vegetables with potatoes, melons and gourds is an effective system for increasing the quantity and quality of fruits and greens. A complete crop rotation in the garden also allows you to perform several important tasks. There is an opportunity to more effectively deal with diseases and pests of plants, to take better care of soil fertility.
What is crop rotation for?
The annual change of annual plants in the field and in the garden is considered optimal. Such rotation is carried out according to certain rules, taking into account the botanical affiliation of plants, requirements for light, soil, and irrigation. If the land area is only a few hundred square meters of land, then in this case it is possible to organize a crop rotation. This is one of the easiest and most affordable ways to increase yields, save on pesticides.
One of the purposes of such a rotation is the most obvious. The plant and pests that have attacked the previous culture are changing, remain without food, their development cycle is interrupted. The first killed microscopic pathogens, larvae of pests.
Crop rotation in the garden: basic rules
The plant alternation scheme necessarily takes into account the most important requirements of agrotechnology. The basic rules of crop rotation - for 2–3 seasons, do not place the same species and varieties on the same plot. The sunflower is especially depleting the ground. "Flower of the sun" is not recommended to grow on the same plot for 5-7 years.
Requires restoration of the soil, depleted by a powerful plant. Leave the plot for steam, or sow alfalfa, vetch or sainfoin. Then dig up the soil along with leguminous plants.
Potatoes consume a specific set of nutrients from the soil. Representatives of the nightshade families, for example, tomatoes or eggplants planted next year after potatoes, will not get the macro- and microelements they need. But the Colorado potato beetle will have the opportunity to further develop. The insect pest prefers solanaceous to all other botanical families.
Crop rotation table at the dacha
The main field, vegetable, melon crops, are grouped in compatibility groups. Selecting the specific names of vegetables, determine what the required number of beds or plots in the garden. They are assigned numbers, make up a table or a scheme in which they designate in advance what and on what bed they should be planted.
In this work, a dacha plan is used, on which should be shown the location of trees, berry bushes, flower beds and plots for vegetables. The following year, annual plants and some biennials do not place again in the same places.
It should be borne in mind that cabbage, as well as tomatoes, celery, cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins need more nitrogen in the soil. Moderate needs for radishes, spinach, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets, kohlrabi. Even less need in nitrogen legumes, spicy herbs.
Table of crop rotation of vegetable crops in the garden, compiled taking into account the biological characteristics of vegetables:
Vegetables from plot number 3 in the next year are grown in the first section. Culture from the first plot should grow in the second plot.
Placing vegetables on 8 plots in the areas where melons and gourds grow:
There is no perennials in the scheme or table of crop rotation. They grow on the same place for several years. They are usually placed around the perimeter or at the end of the plot with the expectation that they do not obscure other cultures. Even a few fruit trees provide protection from the wind, attract pollinators. Among the trees in the garden are small areas where you can grow lettuce, dill, asparagus, parsley and garlic.
Scheme of crop rotation of vegetable crops in the garden
A drawing with the names of the vegetables being grown is prepared in winter, and in the spring before planting they make changes, additions, but taking into account the basic requirements. Any crop rotation scheme must contain a list of plants for each plot. Different icons in the picture show the placement of vegetables, herbs, and spicy herbs.
Crop rotation scheme:
- The first plot: potatoes, compacted radish, carrots, onions and parsley.
- The second plot: green peas, zucchini, pumpkin, sweet corn, compacted beans, tomatoes and sweet pepper.
- Third plot: white cabbage compacted with cucumbers, cauliflower.
If the number of ridges allows, then another vegetable crop rotation scheme is used:
Bed № 1: radishes, early varieties of white cabbage.
No. 2: green peas, leafy greens.
No. 3: potatoes (varieties of different ripening terms), onions after harvesting early potatoes.
No. 4: carrots, table beet, radish.
No. 5: tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplants.
Number 6: zucchini, cucumbers.
No. 7: beans, beans, onions, garlic.
There are no ideal schemes, rotation, namely, what can be planted after that, largely depends on the size of the vegetable garden, the climate of the area, the type of soil and other conditions. An important factor is the preferences of the owner of the problem.
The use of mixed landings
Sealers allow you to expand the list of plants for small dacha plots. Radish can be planted in a small garden between rows with potato bushes. Other vegetables are not suitable because of the same requirements for the conditions of ripening and harvesting.
Compacted planting is a good way to control weeds. Corn stalks are a strong support for weak shoots of curling beans. When planting, you can put the seeds of two different plants in one well. Fasolshirokim leaves closes the soil around the corn stalk, suppresses weeds.
White cabbage can be condensed with cucumbers. Scourge "companion" will find under the cabbage protection from the scorching sun. Cucumbers will help protect the soil under the cruciferous plant from weeds.
What crops can be planted next door?
Asparagus and tomatoes are planted alongside well. Sprouted beans fit the neighborhood on the same bed with potatoes, corn, celery. There are no problems with the placement of cabbage. Representatives of this genus perfectly coexist with beets, cucumbers, celery, potatoes, onions. An unassuming neighbor in the garden is carrots. Nearby you can grow tomatoes, onions, legumes.
Corn is perfectly adjacent to pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, potatoes, peas. Luka is suitable plot near the carrots, beets, tomatoes. Tomatoes prefer carrots, parsley, asparagus as neighbors.
What can not be planted next? Beans do not get along well with onions and beets. Dill and parsley should not be grown next to the carrot. Cucumbers and peas do not like the neighborhood with potatoes. Farther apart, you need to grow the members of the nightshade family: potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants.
Practical advice on the organization of crop rotation
The alternation of plants in the garden is necessary to preserve fertility and soil structure, prevent its destruction when growing the same crops. Proper crop rotation in the garden implies a rotation in which next year the same area will be set aside for a plant with opposite biological features and requirements.
Vegetables that are grown for tubers, bulbs, or root crops should be replaced next year with cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, and zucchini. To obtain sustainable yields, it is necessary to alternate the plant species in the plots each year. In addition, you need to know the characteristics of each variety, whether the natural conditions and the microclimate of the site are suitable for them. Rotation of vegetables must be supported by concern for soil fertility, plant protection.
The site, which is only received and mastered, is first landscaped and cultivated. If the soil is excessively wet, it is recommended to make ridges in the garden, between them leave grooves for water drainage. Acidic substrates require liming to normalize the pH. Light sandy soils “weight” with peat and clay. Low fertility soils enrich: when digging, they bring humus, a complex fertilizer containing all the nutrients.
Growing on one of the sideratov (green fertilizer) plots promotes the accumulation of available nitrogen, eliminates the need to add saltpeter. The following year, the plot is diverted under vegetables that require a high nitrogen content in the soil. Experienced vegetable growers think over fruit years for years to come.
After that, plant ...
The best predecessor for onions are: cucumber, tomato, as well as early white cabbage, cauliflower and early potatoes. Acceptable predecessors - legumes and green crops. This refers to the cultivation of onions on a turnip and sevok.
Like carrots, so beets are best planted after onions, cucumbers and early potatoes. Planting of root crops and after cabbage, tomatoes is allowed.
For cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, cabbage (early white and cauliflower), roots, legumes (excluding beans) and green crops are named the best precursors. It is permissible to plant cucumbers after radish, beets and carrots.
Tomatoes can be planted after an impressive list of crops: white cabbage (early and late), cauliflower, cucumbers, legumes and green crops (including radishes), root vegetables, turnip.
What to plant after ...
Of all three tables, garlic as a predecessor is mentioned in only one. The source says that after garlic it is permissible to plant beets. And in the first source (not in the table, but in the text itself) it appears that after harvesting onions and garlic you can plant summer potatoes. Potatoes are also recommended to grow in between rows of garlic. They are great side by side. But the best neighborhood on the beds of garlic with strawberries. And if we consider that onions and garlic belong to the same group of plants, then the predecessors and they may be common.
After cabbage, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, onions on a turnip and sevok, cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini and squash, pumpkin, green crops, legumes.
Cucumbers are good predecessors for cabbage, carrots, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, radishes, turnips, radishes, garlic, dill, eggplant.
After potatoes, it is good to plant cabbage, onions, roots, cucumbers, green and leguminous plants, squash, pumpkins, squash, garlic.
Pepper is not named in any of the tables as its predecessor, therefore we would recommend to pay attention to its belonging to the “Solanaceae” group (together with tomato and eggplant). In plants of this group, precursors may be common.
After the beet is allowed to plant white cabbage and cauliflower, onions, carrots, cucumber. And well - garlic, tomato.
After the tomatoes they plant white cabbage and colored cabbage, green crops, legumes, garlic. Permissible - cucumbers, onions and roots.
Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes are recommended to be planted after squash.
After onions on a turnip and sevok, the authors of the above sources recommend planting: carrots, beets and tomatoes, white cabbage and cauliflower. It is permissible to plant potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, cucumbers after onions.
We hope that the tables and lists compiled by us on the basis of reference books for gardeners and gardeners will help you decide on the alternation of crops on the site, develop a crop rotation plan for the next year and understand what then it is better to plant in the garden in the summer season 2018 😉 !
What gives us a crop rotation in the garden?
From year to year, pathogens that accumulate in the soil and various pests worsen the quality of the crops grown. If the plantations, which are made by the tender love of summer residents, are practically unchanged and do not change their location, then the pest does not leave its familiar places.
For example, the Colorado potato beetle who loves potatoes. If you do not alternate planting potatoes every year with beets, then the number of Colorado potato beetles will not decrease. And even if you take a lot of measures to its destruction. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, the stagnation of the soil provokes the emergence of late blight pathogens, as well as the colonization of the larvae of other pests that inhabit the beds.
If we are talking about other cultures, then the same scheme works with them. A plot that is always planted with the same crop will only increase the number of those harmful beetles that love to feast on fruits and roots. Stand up against the huge insect invasion is very difficult, so not only plants that are their favorite delicacy, such as cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans and lettuce, but also those that are extremely vulnerable by nature will suffer from this factor. .
The next factor is the increased content of harmful substances in the soil, which contains a system of different crops. These excretions possess toxins not only for the surrounding plants, but also for the colins themselves, as the root system of vegetables is called.
For example, beets and spinach are amazed first. Carrots and pumpkins are more stable, and corn and leeks pay little attention to poison Colina.
Crop rotation helps to avoid depletion of vitamins of the country ground. After all, each vegetable has its own set of substances for nutrition, which is laid in their cells from birth: the plant needs it for normal development and growth.
Naturally, these substances are trying to extract vegetables, berries and fruits from the soil when their “kit” ends. Cabbage respects potassium, but if radishes are planted there, then potash reserves will decrease somewhat slower compared to cabbage, which means that it needs less potassium.
To remedy the situation with the content and quantity of the necessary substances in the soil, it is only necessary to observe the correct sequence of crops, and also plant them on the site from year to year in the required sequence. This is called crop rotation and is a whole agrarian science. Too deep into the scientific jungle is not worth it, just follow a few rules and of course stick to a good seeding plan.
What then plant or proper planning of crops using the following rules:
- It is not possible to plant the same crop on the same plot for several years in a row.. The same applies to those plants that are "relatives", because they have a set of common pests, and also show the same response to the amount of toxic substances that will release Colin. Naturally they take from the soil the same composition and set of substances necessary for growth. All gardeners who do not comply with this rule may come to the fact that their soil will not be fertile at all and will be completely depleted in terms of food supply. It will be necessary to take a new soil to the site and fertilize it again, which of course flies into a large penny for those who like gardening plots.
- Observance of a certain break, after which the site must rest from a certain culture planted on it. Term rest is 2 years. Although many gardeners say that 1 year may be enough if light crops were planted, such as celery salad, but still not enough years to fully restore nutrients and trace elements in the soil. Some plants will produce better crops if you extend the rest period. For example, for carrots, cucumbers and parsley - this is 4 years, and cabbage is recommended to be planted every 7 years in order for the crop to be quite large. Cabbage, like strawberries, is the most capricious element of the garden plot.
- The properties of plants are difficult to overestimate, since not many summer residents suspect that they not only take nutrients from the soil, but also enrich it with their beneficial composition, which is initially contained in the root system. Thus, if you alternate the crops correctly, you will not only maintain the necessary supply of trace elements for this plant, but also improve the composition and structure of the soil for the next crops. At the same time without doing for this virtually no procedures. For example, legumes loosen the ground well and bring a lot of mineral substances into it. Planting melon and buckwheat will help saturate the soil with calcium. If you land dope grass on the sides of your plot, then provide the plants with phosphorus, replacing the weeds with tobacco - increase the level of potassium in the soil. And if you use planting nettle nettle as a preventative between cultures, your soil will be enriched with iron, which is useful for the growth of many healthy vegetable crops. If you follow these rules, you can easily plan the planting of plants for a fairly long time, in order to accurately understand their benefits in terms of yield.
- Be sure to use compost after harvest, as this helps the soil to get a fresher and healthier look. It is like a dressing for indoor plants, those flowers that caring hands of housewives cherish on their window sill. Если вы будете добавлять в компост перечисленные выше растения, то помимо свежих микроэлементов, которые будут поступать при росте и развитие данных контур, вы получите также универсальное удобрение, которое способствует повышению урожая даже в те года, когда почва кажется сдает свои позиции.
- Не стоит забывать также о том, что убрать вредителей с участка и тем самым You can increase your crop rotation by planting plants that scare away beetles and do not allow their larvae to grow freely in the garden. For example, a cloud of aphids can be destroyed by planting garlic or tobacco all over the area. And the Colorado potato beetle is terribly afraid of thyme. Thus, planting these plants, you can completely expel the pests from the site and clean it for planting for the following years.
- And the last rule is to observe some subordination among plants. They consume food from the soil with vegetables in different ways, and therefore it is better not to plant a sequence of very demanding crops one after another. It is best after such heavy crops as potatoes, beets, carrots and cabbage to plant light legumes on the garden bed or lay out the area with a large layer of fertilizer.
Compliance with these rules will help the soil to change systemically, and not unilaterally, and to increase the concentration of certain types of nutrients, the gardener will only need to closely monitor and keep records of his crops.
Another additional bonus for the annual rotation of plants is the constant struggle with weeds. The scourge of all summer residents can be easily and easily removed from your garden if you plant plants that are insensitive to weeds, such as garlic, onions, carrots and parsley. They are best planted after heavy crops, for example, after potatoes or peas. The latter produce very few weeds, since they are absolutely insensitive to this type of grass.
Crop rotation rules
According to the rules of crop rotation, it is recommended to start planting “voracious” crops - cucumbers, zucchini or cabbage on the most fertile land. Naturally, the usual soil preparation procedure is done before planting - the required amount of fertilizer, trace elements and ash is applied to improve the acidity index. After the end of the season and the harvest, it is useful to plant green manure plants on this site, which better manure the fertility of the soil after autumn or spring plowing of their green mass.
The second part of the plot, with less fertile soil, is suitable for onions, radish, greens, or planting tomatoes (eggplants, peppers), if no greenhouse is intended for such plants.
Then stand out ridges for carrots, parsley, beets, turnips, which can give a good harvest in lean soil. However, for clay soils intended for the cultivation of root crops, a small amount of sand is added before digging and sowing.
The fourth piece of vegetable garden is allocated for potatoes, where they bring locally ash and compost or rotted manure into each well.
The following year, what grew in the first section - put on the fourth. Plants from the second section are planted in the first section. And so on, in a circle.
The second specific feature of plants, including vegetables, is the depth of root penetration into the soil. Different cultures have it very different. For example, in corn and alfalfa, roots can penetrate to a depth of 2 m, in tomatoes - a little less than a meter, and in onions, cucumbers, cabbage the root system develops in the surface arable layer of the soil.
This feature also needs to be taken into account with proper crop rotation and alternation of crops, so that the batteries from different layers of the soil are used more evenly.
In addition, we must not forget that there are crops that enrich the soil with nitrogen.
This property has legumes and some wild plants. If you take peas as a unit of comparison, then clover increases the nitrogen content 2.5 times, lupine a little more (2.7 times), and alfalfa 5 times!
And, finally, distributing the main vegetable crops on the plot, you need to take a small area for perennial crops - sorrel, rhubarb, tarragon, lovage, asparagus, perennial onions. These cultures are shade-tolerant, so that they can be sown near buildings or a fence.
Perennial plants have their own periods of maximum productivity, after which the yield drops significantly, which means there is also a need to transplant the plant to another place and return it to the previous one not earlier than in three or four years, during which the earth will “rest.”
Two additional recommendations:
The influence of plants on each other
With crop rotation, everything is clear enough - it is necessary that the plants do not extract the same nutrients from the same soil horizon from the soil and do not contaminate each other "by inheritance" by the same diseases. But with the "friendship and enmity" of plants, the situation is more complicated, and modern science is not yet completely clear. It is known that plants not only absorb, but also release vital waste and protective substances into the soil.
These secretions in some cases are useful, and in others - can be very unpleasant for another plant.
Unlike people who can stop communicating with each other and do not meet with mutual antipathy, the plants are doomed to “tolerate” a neighbor for the whole season or even their whole life.
An example of the first kind of useful coexistence is carrots and onions. Both plants can be affected by onion and carrot flies, respectively. But fortunately, the carrot fly does not tolerate onions, and the onion - the smell of carrots, and they do not fly at the same time. Therefore, planting onions and carrots on the same bed can successfully grow a good crop of both.
But a typical example of the opposite situation is tomatoes and cucumbers. It is not recommended to plant them in one greenhouse and in general, there will not be a good harvest for either of them or others. Cucumbers need a warm, humid climate, and tomatoes need dry air and good ventilation. In addition, tomatoes emit a large amount of ethylene into the air, which inhibits cucumbers.
At the same time, it is noticed that when planting cucumbers next to corn, they have a beneficial effect on it.
Reflecting now before the start of the planting season, look at the table below:
Crop rotation at the dacha, table:
Friends with ...
Feuding with ...
peas, beans, potatoes
onion, tomato, fennel, garlic
eggplants, radish, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, beans
onion, tomato, fennel, garlic
potatoes, onions, lettuce, beetroot, celery, dill
strawberries, beans, tomatoes, fennel
peas, eggplants, cabbage, corn, onions, nasturtium, parsley, radish, lettuce, beets, dill, beans, horseradish, garlic
cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
peas, onions, tomatoes
peas, cabbage, lettuce, dill, beans
potato, pepper, tomato, fennel
green cultures, cabbage, lettuce, gooseberries, onions, asparagus, beans
potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, pepper, fennel
Nowadays, it is very popular to arrange ornamental gardens, where beds are often shaped like sectors of a circle, where vegetables alternate with planting flowers and herbs. In such gardens, it is very convenient every spring by a simple shift of one segment clockwise or counterclockwise to carry out a kind of crop rotation.
Mixed landing protects the earth from such a phenomenon as "fatigue of the earth." In such plantings, plants are less affected by pests, due to the fact that they simply cannot find them by smell.
Properly selected vegetables in mixed plantings have a beneficial effect on each other and due to this they grow and develop better. In addition, they are very adorn the beds, turning them into multi-colored flowerbeds.
Personally, I am in favor of such a crop rotation in which the combination of vegetables with flowers and spicy herbs leads to harmony of beauty and benefits.
Text: Margarita Turkina
Cases garden №4 (66) 2013
Five ways of crop rotation for the dacha
In this article, the rotation is presented as a table.
In order for the crops grown to grow strong and stress-resistant to climate change, they also receive everything they need, namely, their appearance, food, it is necessary to observe crop rotation and return the plants to the same bed after a minimum of 4 years.
Each culture depletes the soil as it grows and feeds, and also attracts certain pests that are peculiar only to it. That is why it is not recommended to plant the same plant on the same place two seasons in a row.
Another important point. If you do not have the ability to observe crop rotation, then it is better to allow the earth to rest by planting it with siderats, or you will have to remove the top layer of soil (somewhere 20-25 cm) and replace it with new fresh soil.
The proposed table is the most complete and detailed table of crop rotation in the country. Familiarize yourself with it, follow simple rules, and you will always be with a good and healthy harvest.
Proper organization of crop rotation in the summer cottage and the table of compatibility of vegetable crops
Recall: All crops in the garden is harmful to plant constantly in one place. The main rule: cultures of one family should not be planted in the same place earlier than in 3-4 years.
Among vegetable and berry crops, there are plants that have been cultivated in the same place for several years in a row, and there are those that do not tolerate secondary planting in old beds for several years. Who is waiting for:
- Cabbage and other crucifers (radishes, radishes, turnips) return to their former beds no earlier than in 2-3 years.
- Cucumbers - annually in a new place, returning in 3-4 years.
- Tomatoes can be planted in the same place in greenhouses, but with mandatory soil preparation, when digging in the fall, make lime powder (50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M.), Otherwise, the soil becomes too acidic and tomato bushes get sick.
- Beets, chard, spinach - return to the old beds only after three or four years.
- Onions - it is permissible to plant three years in a row on one bed, then pick up another place.
- Garlic - it is desirable not to grow it on one bed for more than two years (the likelihood of soil infection by the stem nematode increases). Return in two years.
- Carrots - in the same place not earlier than in 2-3 years, otherwise a sharp decrease in yield or lethal doses of fertilizers are required.
- Eggplant - in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years.
- Legumes (peas, beans, soybeans) are unacceptable to grow in the old place for four to five years. If after the bean beds took solanaceous, you can return the peas to their former beds in three years.
- Strawberries (strawberries) - in the same place no longer than four years, then the beds should be transferred (see the table of the predecessors), it is unacceptable to the place of raspberries. By the way, strawberries do not tolerate the land that has been released after the asteraceae, for example, Jerusalem artichoke, of the buttercup plants - these crops make the ground for strawberries and strawberries unsuitable for three to four years. Do not plant strawberries (strawberries) after nightshade (peppers, tomatoes, potatoes) - these crops can suffer from a common disease - verticillium wilt, which is very dangerous for strawberries.
- Potatoes - it is desirable to grow on the same place not earlier than in 2-3 years. This rule is difficult to comply with the gardener, as a large piece of the garden is usually allocated for the potato plot. But if you plant potatoes not with one continuous plot, but with ridges, you can shift one row to another territory each year.
Table of bad and good predecessors for the main fruit and berry and vegetable crops
Spicy herbs: tarragon, savory, basil, marjoram, coriander. Greens: leaf and cabbage lettuce, green onions (feather).
All cultures, except legumes (beans, soybeans, peas, beans), grow well after siderats, the most popular of which are:
What is crop rotation
Crop rotation is the alternation of crops of garden crops and vapors (non-sown land) at the site. Crop rotation is carried out not only on the territory (alternation of the beds), but also in time (alternation of vegetables, herbs or berries on the same bed).
Example: last year we grow pumpkins in a garden, this year on the same garden: tomatoes.
What you need to know to observe crop rotation
First you need to know how many years you can grow the same culture in the same place. The reason is that during the life cycle of a plant, it releases some phytotoxic substances (colins) that accumulate in the soil - this is the so-called allelopathic activity. Initially, nature had conceived that allelopathy would be directed solely at competing plants. But oddly enough, with the long-term cultivation of the culture in the same place, poisoning by its own colins occurs gradually.
For example, phytotoxins secreted by sugar beet when it has been continuously grown for several years, lead to its toxicity for beet itself and other crops. Partly help may be drying the soil layer after digging into the sun, and some phytotoxic substances are extracted from the soil with water.
Slightly less sensitive to their own Colin cabbage, carrots, radishes, peas. The most resistant corn and leek. In addition to root excretions, the source of colins is the entire aboveground part of the plants. That is why never leave the garden beds to dry and rot the tops of vegetables. All that does not apply to the harvest, you need to remove from the site.
1. The main rule of crop rotation: the alternation of garden crops belonging to different families:
lettuce and cabbage, Jerusalem artichoke, chicory
Adding an article to a new collection
It is necessary to alternate garden crops on the plot wisely, because it is not enough just to swap them, you also need to know the sequence and system of crop rotation.
When growing the same crop in one place for several years in a row, the soil is depleted, pathogens accumulate in it, and the pests out of habit "gather" to their favorite vegetables. You can rectify the situation if you plant plants in other beds in the new season. However, not everything is as simple as it may seem at first glance.
How to alternate plants?
In order to properly alternate planting and make a rational scheme of crop rotation, it is important to know which family this or that plant belongs to. Because representatives of the same family, as a rule, suffer from the same diseases and are attacked by the same pests. For example, after lettuce and root celery, root rot pathogens often lurk in the soil. The cabbage can be attacked by a cabbage fly, sometimes the cabbies are struck by the keel, after which it is undesirable to plant a vegetable in this place for about 6 years. Thus, it is impossible, for example, to sow dill to replace carrots. These cultures belong to the same family - Celery.
Interestingly, crop rotation should be observed not only when growing vegetables, as many mistakenly believe. If you think that flowers and medicinal plants can not be "relatives" of vegetables, then you are mistaken. Even as they can! For example, tulips and onions-slizun - almost native "brothers". So, if you broke a flower bed at the place of a bed, it does not mean at all that vegetables will grow well on it. It is important to choose the right culture followers.
Especially for you, we have compiled a table of belonging of different cultures to families.
The importance of good crop planning
The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy. Colorado beetles.If the plantation of this crop does not change its location for several years, there is no need for the pest to migrate in search of food - after wintering it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions and immediately begins to destroy the plant. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, planting potatoes contribute to the accumulation of late blight pathogens and click larvae and moth larvae in the soil.
With other cultures, the situation develops in the same way. On a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase year by year.which are dangerous for her and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Particularly affected by this factor are cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, lettuce. The second is an increase in the concentration of harmful substances secreted by the roots of a particular culture (the so-called colins) and which are toxic to the culture itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkins, radishes, parsley), others almost do not react to colins (legumes, leeks, corn). In addition, different plants emit different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, especially a lot of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.
The third is the depletion of nutrients in the soil. Each culture has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that it is their plant and will try to extract from the soil. For example, if cabbage is very much in need of potassium, then after its planting this element in the soil will remain less and less, while, say, after radish, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by alternating between cultures planted on the site from year to year. Эта процедура имеет название севооборот и представляет собой целую науку. Однако если сложной теоретической подготовкой заниматься некогда, достаточно усвоить несколько основополагающих правил, и урожай на вашем участке всегда будет одинаково обильным.
One after another, it is impossible to plant not only the same culture for several years in a row, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species), as they usually have common pests, react to toxins in the same way and consume the same composition of trace elements.
The average period during which the earth should rest after a certain culture is two years. (one year is usually not enough for full recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their former place for at least 4 years, and in relation to cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is undesirable to reduce.Plants tend not only to consume trace elements from the soil, but also to enrich it with certain useful substances and properties. therefore Correct crop rotation can allow not only to preserve the elements that are especially necessary for the plant, but also to improve the soil composition and structure without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, datura-grass - with phosphorus, tobacco - with potassium, dioecious nettle - with iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need of different types of crops for various microelements, it is easy to plan crops for several years ahead. By the way, the specified properties of the listed crops can be used more fully, laying them in the compost after harvesting.
The same rule applies to pests. There are cultures that are not just resistant to certain diseases, but also deterring their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. Thyme is afraid of the Colorado potato beetle. If you plant such orderlies after plants exposed to these pests, there is a good opportunity to expel them from the site, freeing it for planting in subsequent years.
The need for plants in the nutritional elements varies. It is impossible to plant one after another too demanding on the composition of the soil culture. It is more correct to plant legumes after such a crop or to apply the necessary fertilizer layer.Thus, the correct alternation of crops will allow you to avoid unilateral depletion of the same elements in the soil, increasing the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria in it, as well as uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.
Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on the plot is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to this neighborhood (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips), they are best planted after those crops that leave behind a minimal amount of weeds. These plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage.
What can be planted after cabbage
Cabbage is exposed to a variety of pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will say with confidence: only not cabbage, even if we are talking about its other forms! This is the worst option that can be imagined, but if there is no other, the soil must be very well composted.
Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are the favorite food for the same pests.
Ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes are also allowed. With these vegetables, cabbage, moreover, gets along well in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But next to the tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes, cabbage in front, you should not plant. Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, as well as annual herbs are considered to be good predecessors to cabbage.
What to plant after garlic
Garlic, as well as onions, is not recommended to be planted for a long time at the same place, as well as alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden, so it is potatoes, especially early ripe. A valid option is also tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets, or cabbage.
But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for subsequent use, replenish its mineral reserve and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rape do well with this role.
What to plant after cucumbersCucumbers are more demanding on the composition of the soil than many other crops. The soil before planting is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic and mineral dressings. From this it follows that planting after cucumbers in the next year should be something less fastidious. For example, cabbage is absolutely not suitable for these purposes; it also needs fertile soil. Feel good on the site where they grew cucumbers, various root vegetables - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil after the cucumbers, it is possible to plant legumes and only then use other vegetable crops, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.
What to plant after strawberries
Strawberries tend to deplete the soil very much, so immediately after transplanting (and it is better to do this every four years) the bed where it grew, you need to carefully feed with mineral and organic fertilizers. Make it better right in the fall, carefully digging the soil after making it additives.
Strawberries in particular consume nitrogen, so it’s best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after it — they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.Antifungal and phytoncidal properties of garlic make it a good helper for cleaning the soil from pests left in it after strawberries. Simultaneously with garlic, parsley, celery and other fragrant greens can be planted here to get rid of slugs.
Actually, on this planting options for the next year after the strawberries are limited. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.
What to plant after potatoes
Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting tubers lacks precisely these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, and you can plant annual herbs that generate potassium and phosphorus. This role can fulfill the dope-grass, mustard, oats, peas, rapeseed, fatsely.If it is not possible to completely free the plot after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require prior mineral fertilization to restore fertility in the soil. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other solanaceous cultures cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.
Potato predecessors successfully make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, onions.
What to plant after tomatoes
We decided that after the tomatoes can not plant eggplants, potatoes and peppers. As with other cultures, after tomatoes it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with missing elements. If for such a luxury there is no possibility - it does not matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help fill the lack of nitrogen in the soil, cabbage will also feel good on the garden where tomatoes grew, because the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, garlic. In addition, tomatoes - this is the little, after which you can plant carrots.
What to plant after the beetThe choice of what can be planted after the beets for the next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshade are suitable for this purpose, but before such planting the soil must be carefully fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. A good option is carrots. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.
The above cultures work in the reverse order, that is, in relation to, after which it is better to plant beets. You can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, lettuce, parsley, dill, and celery to the list.
What can be planted after pepper
The root system of sweet pepper is in the upper layers of the soil, so after it is best to plant crops with deeper roots. It can be root vegetables (radishes, radishes, beets, carrots), except potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.
It is not allowed to plant any cultures of the nightshade family after pepper. You can plant the sweet peppers after peas, zucchini, pumpkins, cabbage, beets, celery.
What can be planted after peas
Pea, as mentioned above, is a good predecessor for many cultures. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will have a particularly favorable effect on the yield of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, melons, and also various types of cabbage.However, pea has one unpleasant feature: it is very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially in conditions of high humidity. Therefore, if a culture affected by such a disease grew on the site, next year neither peas nor other legumes should be planted in this place. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so the whole period of the bed is better to use under less susceptible to these diseases culture.
What to plant afterwards: the table of vegetable crop precursors during planting
With regard to the desirable and undesirable precursors of specific vegetable crops, there are a huge number of general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. You can check with them whenever you plan the corresponding rotations.
For example, you can group the crop rotation rules as follows: